Radius 10 represents its city well – a cuisine with a clear southern lineage but one that is augmented with modern (and international) technique. The practicalities of running a restaurant in Nashville have probably prevented Jason Brumm’s cuisine from realizing his ultimate vision, but it is certainly a worthwhile visit in its current manifestation. Radius does not eschew comfort and deliciousness as some of its contemporaries might; rather, it uses that as a base for its modern technique. The end result is a unique voice in today’s food scene.

The View from the Chef’s Bar

Radius 10 is a lot of fun too. There is a chef’s bar where one can watch (some of) the action and talk to the chefs. I became somewhat of a minor celebrity that night through my road trip tales (or is that trials & tribulations?)

1. Roasted Pear w/ Foie Gras, Apple Sauce, & Blue Cheese

Not a big bang, a little muddled in flavor, but the apple sauce had enough spice to carry it through. Ok.

2. Citrus Trio (Yuzu Sorbet, Orange/Crab Salad, & Compari Soda)

The sorbet had that intense flavorful kick you want although it may have been too sweet. The orange/crab salad had none of the sweetness as Highlands the night before – it was just there. The soda was a big kick – very acidic, lots of carbonation, bitter, but oddly, delicious. Ok to Very Good.

3. Butter Roasted Pear w/ Blue Cheese “Cake”, Walnut Crisp, & Collard Greens

The cake was the star – creamy like a very light cheesecake, barely sweet w/ great acidity. Very Good.

4. Shrimp & Scallop over Creamy Grits

The grits were the star – creamy w/ great corn taste – rivaled my precious Momofuku favorites. Seafood was good w/ the shrimp being just right. Very Good.

5. Seared Tuna w/ Butternut Squash, Butternut Squash Foam, & Vanilla Bay Vapor

Some parlor tricks w/ the vapor (but it did smell great!) The squash was unncessary but the delicate sweetness of the foam paired nicely w/ the pristine tuna. The seared pepper cut the butter and produced a great union. Very Good.

6. White Truffle White Cheddar Mac’n'Cheese

The ultimate comfort food? Very Good.

7. Seared Duck w/ Chocolate/Balsamic, Duck Confit Bread Pudding, & Leek Confit

The balsamic cut through the fattiness of the duck and the chocolate gave it some nice body. The leek confit was really nice – it had a ’smoke’ sensation in the mouth where the leek taste lingered for a bit. Very Good.

8. Kobe Short Ribs w/ Carrots & Carrot Puree

This is one of their signature dishes. No pics, no notes, no memory, but i did eat it… or did i?

9. Sweet Potato Pie

Being forced sweet potatoes all my life, i hate them; but this was pretty good. An interesting take on the concept – sweet potato ice cream w/ sweet potato meringue sitting atop some chocolate dirt. Good pure flavors. Very Good.

10. Smoked Ice Cream

No pics, but served in a bowl of smoke. Smoky, intense, very good, but not on the same level as Can Roca’s infamous cigar. Very Good.

Overall, a very interesting meal. It obviously has a foundation in southern cuisine but tries to infuse them w/ very modern techniques. Does it leave the food soul-less? Not at all although it can be incongruous at times. Is this on the same level as WD-50? Probably not but it’s certainly more grounded in ‘real food.’ If you happen to be in or near Nashville, I think it warrants a visit. If you happen to be doing an American tour of “modern” restaurants, it deserves to be placed on your list.

- chuck