Alex (Las Vegas) – Something Real in the Netherworld

As you know, Las Vegas is a weird city. It’s a city that was founded on nothing; and continues to develop thanks to nothing. You can gamble in nearly every state yet LV brings in the majority of that past-time’s tourism.

It nearly works the same way for food too. Top chefs from around the world hear LV’s cash registers and get invited to open an outpost. However, don’t expect to properly experience the chef’s cuisine in LV because it works just like New York, New York – it’s an often watered-down mechanized version of the food fit for the average American palette.

Alex is one of the lone exceptions. His LV restaurant is his only restaurant and he cooks there. I ate here on the 2nd-to-last meal of the road trip. I was expecting something a lot richer (from previous reviews) than I got. Went w/ the tasting menu.

It was a good meal but overpriced at $175. If i went back, I would create my own tasting menu that focused on the richer side of things – namely foie gras.

1. Carpaccio of Red Prawns w/ Sea Urchin, Celery, & Osetra Caviar
Pretty good, nice sweet prawns, but this dish didn’t have the impact of the similar L’Arpege I had a few months ago. The urchin’s creaminess should have offset the caviar a bit more. Good.

2. Roasted Sea Scallop w/ Savoy Cabbage, Pancetta, & Black Truffles
Very good, it’s hard to go wrong w/ ham/scallop combination; and black truffle bits generally don’t hurt. Very Good.

3. Saute of Foie Gras w/ Pomengranates, Aged Balsamico, & Butternut Squash
Very good, it’s foie.

4. Wild Turbot w/ Cauliflower Puree, Red Wine Sauce, & Porcini Mushrooms
Probably the least impressive dish, I’m pretty sure it wasn’t cooked on the bone. Fish was also slightly overcooked. Ok.

5. Wagyu Beef w/ Potato Gnocchi, Parmigiano, & Bordelaise Sauce
Good, I find myself wondering if I’m the only person who might prefer (good) regular beef over wagyu? I think they probably overcooked mine too but, hey, that wine was pretty good smile.gif

The place was only half full on a Fri night but I suppose it’s a gigantic room. I’d try it again but I would be a lot pickier about what I ordered.

- chuck

  • Dustin E

    Amazing how accurate and relevant your review is almost 4 years after the fact. For our meal last weekend the best courses were the richest ones (foie gras and wagyu), the fish was very overcooked, and overall it was a nice-but-overpriced experience. Separately, I would wonder how you would rate the fish at Bartolotta?

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