Gastroville (finally) wrote their review of Manresa a few days ago, ending with “at this point in time Manresa is the place to head to in California for the high end of the cuisine.” I’ve only been eating on the high-end for a few years now but it’s nice to see my taste radar is well adjusted. They too were particularly impressed with the vegetables, proclaiming them presently on par with the mythical Chez Panisse and for the future – “we may be witnessing a historical process in California.”

I had my first Manresa meal of 2007 a few nights ago. Many of the dishes were repeats of earlier meals but I did manage to photograph the new dishes (and/or those I have not photographed before.) As usual, the meal was among one of the better meals in America that night. Notes are a bit scarce.

1.Fried oyster & Garden Veloute
The oyster gave a hint of sea while the veloute provided a rich earthy aftertaste. The balance and transition in flavor were masterfully done. Very Good.

2. Romanesca & Foie Gras Royale
Slightly greasier than past incarnations but still very good. The fatty foie coated your mouth while the earthy romanesca broke though. Very Good.

3. Consomme of Caviar, Brioche w/ Laite de Mer
A crisp burst of salty caviar followed by a brightness from the consomme. The salt burst meets a gracious end as it fades away and yields to the cool consomme. Very Good.

4. Mesquite Foie w/ Rosemary Flower Vinegar & Pear
As excellent as usual, this was the best presentation of the foie that I can remember. Gastroville complained that it was overly smoky but I think Chef Kinch has made some strides over the past few months with the consistency of what has become a sublime preparation. When I first ate the dish, it could oscillate from perfect to “I wish it was like last time.” However, it has been consistently excellent over the past 4-5 meals. Excellent.

5. Bay Scallops w/ Black Truffle & Yuzu
A sublime combination as I’ve noted before – but this presentation was the best yet. It has some shades of a Fat Duck dish that was recently unveiled. (Chef Kinch recently spent some time in the Fat Duck kitchen in a culinary research capacity.) Excellent.

6. Kin-medai sashimi-style w/ Sea Salt
Pristine fish with a touch of salt elevating it higher. Very Good.

7. Roast Hearts of Palm, Ficoide Glaciale, Neopolitana Satsumas
A surprising mixture of textures that resembled an old Bastide dish in spirit, but w/ Manresa’s emphasis on market ingredients. The flavors and textures of each were intense and bold, yet they co-existed effortlessly together. Very Good.

8. Roast Turbot w/ Shellfish Juices & Black Truffles
The earthy truffle broke the gelatinous fish and the shellfish juices added just a bit more dimension. Very Good.

It has become my “neighborhood” restaurant (despite being an hour away.) I will be returning after my trip to France for the L’Arpege / Alain Passard dinner special. While that event is booked, the Citrus Modernista Dinner is coming up quick. I attended last year (no blog entry though) and it’s a great introduction to Kinch’s cuisine – an emphasis on (scarce) market ingredients with bold citrus flavors that will win you over.
- chuck