Ledoyen rests in an 18th century pavilion in the gardens of the Champs-Elysees. Some might call the interior grand but the room has the feel of a fallen star. The views are nice and the room is filled with plenty of light but the majesty seems outdated; a desperate attempt to cling to what once was. That may not bode well but the food is modern and Michelin-3-star approved. Of course, I’ve learned that is no guarantee – Gastroville’s 18.5/20 rating is about as close to a guarantee as you’ll get. With that nudge, I decided to give Ledoyen the benefit (or curse) of the last meal in Paris.
1. Amuse – Cuttlefish Sashimi in Almond Milk w/ Lavender Foam
Amuses are often loud and boisterous statements that have little connection to the meal to come. While impact is necessary, a near-contemplative silence can last forever. This amuse pierced through the outside world and softly cooed about the meal to come. It talked of complementing flavors, textures, and harmony. The luscious almond milk’s slight sweetness perfectly complemented the (very fresh) and naturally sweet cuttlefish. The lavender foam, nearly ephemeral in texture, added a subtle but noticeable sweet and floral quality that lingered for a few extra seconds. It was soft-spoken but all-commanding, a rare work of harmony. Sublime.
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