Often, after taking a bite, you look at the plates for clues. Their simplicity belies the sensations of the palate. In an age of abundance, when dishes need matrices for decoding, David Kinch continues to reduce and refine, searching for the ethereal. A citrus or vinaigrette command immediate attention and focus, never letting the flavors wander or muddy. Sprigs of herbs, gorgeous but seemingly ancillary, pepper each bite with their quick short jabs of bitterness or tang, a Thin Green Line against an overbearing protein. Essence has always driven Kinch’s best dishes for my 25+ meals at Manresa.