Tucked along the French and Belgium border, In De Wulf sits between farmland and field1 – a space that frames the restaurant’s dialectics. There are no answers but only more questions – true art. What explains the difference in philosophy between someone like Alain Passard, who with three gardens is supremely interested in the terroir of ingredients; and Rene Redzepi, who primarily plucks from the wild land for the plate?
Archive for January, 2012
After a few amuses, an expectation stretched, flavor combinations dared, the downbeat of molecular meals drops – and it always pops! One bite, as always instructed, where the slightest resistance breaks with an explosion of flavor, its startling intensity foreshadows more surprise. Jaws clench down, cartoon eyes bulge, and smiles expand – a collective we have been waiting for this! At Atelier Crenn, the Kir Breton, served as the final amuse, pops with intense cool apple cider and sparkles as it engulfs the mouth – appearances are deceiving and the unpredictable fun.