Archive for March, 2012

La Grenouillère (Montreuil-sur-Mer, France) – Wild at Heart

In the storming of the fine dining Bastille, they’ve taken the luxury ingredients, the china, the suits, the pretense – out! Quality has been democratized, they say,1 and new points of view have created new niches. La Grenouillere bubbles with a mischievous bent. The menu is thrown on the table and slowly unfurls. Crystal is scratched but it still drinks the same. That dining room. Vegetables. Perhaps it is with a wink, or sly smile, but Alexandre Gauthier’s La Grenouillère adds a touch of Marinetti to the rituals of fine dining.

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La Vie (Osnabrück, Germany) – Explorations

Evocative of landscapes, Thomas Bühner’s dishes encourage trailblazing through his crawling plates. Using the main ingredient as guide, pairing complements and opposites in random walks, dimension and nuance are explored. Each bite might differ – a stinging acidity and unexpected sweetness might dance back and forth before settling on a nutty tempered finish. Symphonic, as Bühner himself aspires to, where complex dishes balance a variety of flavors, textures, and sometimes, temperatures; all integral to the final work. “And wait until the main dish arrives,” High End Food said before walking away.

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