Archive for November, 2014

Saison (SF) – Fire and Time

This fire started in 2010. A few different leaves were elaborately grilled for striking contrasts in texture. Small smoky bursts stuck to the last pops of caviar. Embers kissed fish with a sudden puff of smoke. Smoky fragrances in light seafood bone broths. Vegetables painted with gradations of carbon across their surfaces. Aged proteins grilled on the primal flame. A slow burn for four years and twenty meals – from pop-up to three stars.

The hearth is inspiration and draw.1 But it does not solely define Saison’s identity.

Honoring ingredients has been a Saison dictum since its earliest days. Serve the best ingredients available with the minimum intervention to exact their ideals. This approach is increasingly tied to the idea of place. Each season sees the restaurant getting more local. Farming plots are de rigueur and Saison now has one. Despite the cliche, there is a huge advantage for plucking produce at its prime, hours before serving. Dairy now comes from their own cow – what comparison can be made between fresh raw milk and even the best commercial product? Seafood comes from local waters, using their own boat.

Roe
Battle Creek trout roe

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