This is Rome before the fall – French haute cuisine in its heyday – one man in pursuit of his own perfection – an artisan only serving what he deems worthy of his absolutely high standards – priced accordingly. The Tuesday lunch was filled with many proclamations, some implied, others on proud display – the highest-bidded (200kg+) tuna of the day from Tsukiji, broken down in front of us, to the house-made bottarga – served unadorned, its genius laid bare – its intense briny concentration tremendous. A fair amount of fish available is not served – cut, inspected, re-inspected, and tossed – presumably because it did not meet some internal standard, as it should be in more restaurants across the world.

The cold bowl of uni (origin forgotten) was beyond pristine – look at the picture and its tongue-like surface intact – an extraordinary salvo near the beginning of the meal. That dish alone encapsulated the entire experience – the utmost complexity masquerading as simplicity. Rarely is uni served in a cold brine (in the US, at least) and, yet, why should it be served otherwise?

After the sashimi courses, the sushi comes, piece after piece. It is a story of the sea – to the day – as told through a master story-teller. The chuotoro was the star on this day, combining the luxurious fatty mouthfeel of toro but retaining the strong flavor of the best maguro. If you look carefully at the various nigiri, you’ll see the intricate cuts in most pieces of fish – not unique to Sawada of course – but there are many lessons in those cuts – keys to deciphering the different textures of each fish.

Aged tuna? The previous Sunday’s lunch included the object of black art². Its taste was more intense, somewhat analogous to the difference between regular and dry-aged beef. The color correction in that post is a bit off, as the meat could be mistaken for whale, but the meat does have a darker hue to it. It would probably take many meals, throughout seasons and across species, to get a firm (no pun intended), and factual, handle on different techniques used. (I recall reading that Sushi Yasuda preferred to freeze his tuna as the ice molecules break down the fat and yield a more toro-like texture.) There is a lot of misinformation out there and, presumably, amateur practitioners – the results at a place like Sawada speak for themselves.

Is everything perfect? The rice has been criticized by a few patrons as being vinegar-charged, and overwhelming by the end of the meal. The first meal’s rice was charged but not over-bearing, and I quite liked it. The second meal’s rice was mild by comparison and I missed the vinegar. If nothing else, the rice is not consistent. The rice itself did not attain the perfect symbiosis of fish/rice texture of the magical 1-2 pieces at Mizutani (but not even he could sustain that level of perfection for the majority of the meal.)

We were the only people that day for lunch – one of the world’s top sushi chefs – ours. When was the last time Alain Passard cooked just for you?

Go – it costs as much as any restaurant in Europe but it reaches, and attains, a higher perfection.

- chuck

1 – In Tokyo, this includes Harutaka, Sushiso Masa, and Sushi Mizutani. In the latter, the potential exists but it did not deliver on my single meal. I must still try the infamous Sukiyabashi Jiro and the other three-star – Sushi Saito.

2 – Black art or not, this incredible Gastroville post reveals some rare insight into aging tuna – fresh may not always be best. And another post on speared fish and ike jime. Cooking Issues also has a series of posts on ike jime on their excellent blog.

Despite the reverence for ingredients, eating at Koju is not temple-like; instead, it is fun. Okuda-san is a charming cook – always willing, with a boyish enthusiasm, to explain the food. Engage him and he will pull out books for you – test you – and honor you with treats. Eating at the counter is a must – do not settle for the tatami room (unless you are entertaining a party.)

The food is austere and minimalist and it could be challenging for a first-time visitor to Japan. Much technique is involved in the creation of the food, and its handling, but it does not exhibit the flare and bombastic approach of many Western chefs. Some might say “that’s it?” but the ingredient quality alone, if nothing else, will keep one engaged. Last year, the memories lasted and re-surfaced well over a week later, as I found myself comparing everything I ate to the magic of Koju.

This meal took place last fall. The entire meal is posted below with minimal description – words are meaningless ²…

- chuck

1 – Similar effect, but in a completely contrasting style, El Poblet is the other restaurant I would consider as “my absolute favorite.”

2 – Terre et Mer wrote a more detailed description of his Winter meal. There is also last year’s review of a similar meal and time period.

Carrots (from the garden)

In these days of “locavore this” and “head to tail that”, The Sportsman occupies a near-impossible spot at these (arguably) ecological and ethical intersections. The restaurant sources most, if not all, of its food from its immediate area. But it does not stop there- almost everything is made in-house, going to such extremes as boiling the backyard sea for its salt, which is then used to cure a leg of ham (which wallowed in the meadows across the road.) And every effort is made to use everything, letting little go to waste, feeding said pig with the scraps from the restaurant. It is a sustainable operation with a burgeoning garden in back. The food and ethos remind me of Eigensinn Farm (near Toronto), but the execution at The Sportsman was markedly better on this visit.

Stephen Harris has some Howard Roark inside of him,¹ competing with his inner Michel Bras and Rene Redzepi’s, pursuing his own vision of what it means to own and operate a restaurant emblematic of Seasalter and its history. His commitment to a philosophy, a story about time and place, gives the food meaning.² It is an appreciation, and wonder, of the environment and its possibilities that makes the food delicious. And it is Stephen’s (and head chef Dan Flavell’s) skill and (obvious) obsessiveness that ensure the meal has few, if any, missteps.

This is a lunch from late June. The tasting menu was arranged in advance and I was “known” but I doubt that matters. In fact, the food being served to other tables off of the a la carte menu looked better.³ Felix Hirsch, A Summer of Innocence (sadly, the summer and/or innocence is over), and A Girl Has to Eat had similar meals. The Ulterior Epicure and Food Snob, the anti-Twitter, had a winter meal for comparison’s sake. What you will read, here and there, is uniform praise.

Oyster with home-made chorizio

Pork scratchings

Pickled Herring

The trio of amuses were a strong introduction to the restaurant and its terroir – the land and sea. The oyster’s purity captured the salty and refreshing sea breeze outside. The house-made chorizio’s spiciness provided a familiar partner to the oyster but it also proved to be an interesting contrast in textures and saltiness. The pork scratchings were guilty pleasures – quite crunchy on the outside which gave way to a melting fatty center. The pictured serving is not enough for gluttons. The pickled herring were as good as any in Denmark, bright with a sufficient sour twang. Apple jelly and soda bread accompanied the herring but I preferred it (my fish) solo.

Bread (Soda bread, focaccia, and sourdough), home-churned butter and Seasalter sea salt

Butter and bread, taken for granted at most restaurants by most customers, is rarely treated with the same reverence as the remainder of the meal. When this butter was delivered, its color promised The Sportsman would be different. It had a sweet robustness, a very rich and creamy texture in the mouth, and a nice pinch of salt (from the ocean outside.) There are probably hundreds of great butters throughout the world, particularly across the English Channel in Brittany, but this was among the best I have tried. The breads were as strong as any line-up I can remember, my preference being the slightly sweet soda bread, everyone else the focaccia. The danger here is, of course, eating too much before the meal truly begins.

Rockpool

Stephen delivered this dish and said it was influenced by Manresa’s tidal pool. It is interesting to note the connection, as Manresa has been forging a path similar to The Sportsman. Their styles are different but the underlying theories are similar. The Manresa version is as salty as the sea, whereas this tended toward the herbacious (and somewhat sweet if i recall correctly.) Lemon verbana and fresh-picked herbs from the nearby sea gave it dimension. A fish stock made of the brill (to be served later) was used. It is interesting to see different chefs tackle a similar concept; and it does make one clamor for Stephen to do a Michel Bras inspired salad or a L’Arpege type egg.

Baked oyster with gooseberry granite

Crab risotto

If it was not clear that The Sportsman is influenced by the sea, the crab risotto drives the point home with an intense iodine and crab essence. The rice is purposely overcooked, though I did not find its texture overly mushy, to add to the overall creaminess. If this is available, it should be ordered, and savored.

Seasalter Ham cured in December 2007

The Sportsman cares about its food, which was evidently clear from the previous dishes. It goes beyond attention to detail or deliciousness; this was food made with love (yes, that sounds cheesy; and, if you know me, you’ll rarely hear me talk like that!) It should not have been surprising, then, when the ham came out. But reading the synopsis of the ham (the first picture above, a larger size is here if needed) was one of the greatest moments in my restaurant-eating experiences. Here is a guy, as obsessive as they come, taking it to the next level.

While it may not equal a 36-month aged jamon iberico (my main experience with quality hams), it held its own and that is what matters. We need more high-quality local alternatives around the world. The fat coated the mouth while the intensity of the meat lingered. It had a nice sweetness, probably attributable to the pig’s excellent diet.

Brill braised in vin jaune with smoked pork

A pristine fish, obviously line caught, delivered by the morning fishermen. You can taste the sea in a fresh fish, something one will never know shopping at Whole Foods. When fish is this fresh, I am careful not to taint its pristineness with other elements from the plate, a rare case of not trusting the chef. The pork was good by itself, and it infused the fish with its smokiness, but I could not bring myself to eat them together (that perfect fish!) for the duration of the dish. The vin jaune, however, was exemplary and worthy – creamy and balanced – while remaining impossibly light. This fish died, and cooked, with dignity, avoiding the sacrilegious treatment it would have suffered in the pans of most chefs.⁴

Fried lamb belly

Roast rack of Monkshill farm lamb and braised shoulder

The fried lamb belly was tasty but it felt a little clumsy when compared to the rest of the meal. The braised shoulder would probably do it for most but the texture of braised meats, unless smothered in BBQ sauce or found in a tagine, has never done it for me. The roast lamb, however, was, yet again, exemplary. A very nice piece of meat cooked exactly right – nothing more, nothing less – and, yet, so hard to find.

Elderflower posset

Elderflowers – Fried and Lolly dipped in cake milk

Light and still creamy, the posset was a nice transition dessert that had a strong vanilla flavor. Fried items at The Sportsman, judging from other blog posts, can be variable but I thought the fried elderflower was well done, if even inadvertently. The batter may have been thick but its lattice work had a wonderful texture in the mouth. Cake milk, while quite sweet, was satisfactory on quite a few levels – viscosity and memorial.

Rhubarb sorbet

Tart and refreshing, a great finish to an excellent meal. The rhubarb’s tartness was augmented by the surprise inside (which will remain so) – highly unexpected but completely complementary.

Mignardises

It is an improbable restaurant serving an enchanting meal. It is a vision that requires an obsessiveness over every facet of the meal and it is admirable that a restaurant producing everything themselves can deliver so consistently. The details matter and they were rarely overlooked. The Sportsman has one Michelin star but it delivers a solidly two-star experience, if not three at times.

It was within that critical framework that I could say that The Sportsman, on a trip that included noma and Geranium, was my favorite meal of the week. And right up there for the year. And that it gives me a reason to make a connecting flight through London on subsequent European adventures. It is the type of place Anthony Bourdain will visit next year for his show. A myth in the making.

- chuck

1 – The politics of The Fountainhead are controversial but this is meant as the highest complement, a person pursuing his own vision.

2 – You’ve heard this story before here – it’s a common thread that runs through restaurants as different as Manresa, Ubuntu, L’Arpege, Michel Bras, noma, and much Japanese cuisine.

3 – I don’t know about the lodging options in the area, nor of things to do during the day, but my next visit will include a dinner / lunch, back to back, once ordering a tasting menu, and the other a la carte. The renditions of English staples such as Shepherd’s Pie looked remarkable.

4 – If anything, I am not being dramatic enough!

Smoked quail egg

Noma’s star has risen quite high over the past two years with its naturalistic take on fine dining. The restaurant’s influence has spread rapidly – mixing El Bulli’s modern, and under-appreciated democratic, principles with Michel Bras’s “one with nature” approach. Redzepi has taken the L’Arpege “I’ll grow my own vegetables” philosophy a few steps further by sending out on a team of foragers to comb the Nordic countrysides for ingredients.² It is a model that will prove influential but not necessarily imitated – there aren’t many (populated) places on Earth that can still yield an abundance of wild and foraged ingredients (though I suspect what populated areas might yield would surprise me.)

Question: Can you just give us a flavour of the type of ingredients you are using?

Rene Redzepi: …. We have a landmass here with only about 25 million people living in it, so there’s a lot of wilderness and it’s virtually untouched. There are a lot of wild plants – 50 to 60 common wild herbs, flowers and leaves, and about 60 types of wild berries – so we try to experiment with using them.

from: http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2008/05/08/320700/an-interview-with-nomas-ren-redzepi-chef-conference-2008.html

Not only is anything edible a potential ingredient, an ingredient’s ingredients are also fair game – oils, saps, leaves, and flowers. It is this exploration into largely overlooked by-products, flavors, and textures that link restaurants like noma, Manresa, The Sportsman, and Ubuntu together into conceptual cousins.³ This naturalist approach can be challenging to our notions of both “food”and “fine dining.” Industrial food production has limited the concept of edible food to a handful of plants, meats, and liquids while fancy restaurants have focused on a small subset of “luxury” ingredients. The dishes and ingredients served at noma will find limited overlap with either; but the skill employed to learn, coax, and balance such flavors in these restaurants is unquestionably haute.

This was a weekday lunch that Trine at verygoodfood was gracious enough to set up. She is (obviously) a frequent visitor to noma so she is quite friendly with the staff. This meal lasted six hours, enough time for the sunny weather to turn into a dramatic downpour. The lighting was great for picture-taking but note-taking was turned off – not every dish will have a detailed description. To say it was one of the greatest restaurant experiences would be an understatement – the staff at noma are very proud of what they are doing – and that enthusiasm and dedication might be the ultimate secret ingredient in the food.

Rye bread, chicken skin, lump fish roe and smoked cheese

Radish, soil and herbs

An introduction to the philosophy of the restaurant – eat nature, all of it – the “soil”, root, stems, & greens. With one dish, the restaurant’s vision and philosophy is simply stated.

Toast, herbs, turbot roe and vinegar

Squid and green strawberry, cream and dill

The squid, surprisingly tender for being raw, was cut into small cubes and drizzled with the cream. This was a delicate pairing that showcased the power of a simple herb, while the sweet cream luxuriously seeped into each bite. The acidity of the green strawberry, a flavor profile Redzepi must be particularly fond of, served as a foil but its strength was a challenge to my sense of balance. The elegance of the squid/cream/dill pairing was among the hallmarks of this trip.

Bread with lard

Shrimp, seaweed, rhubarb, and herbs

A tempered version of the squid dish – the Danish shrimp were sweeter and the rhubarb less abrasive – the ingredients sang together in harmony – herbaceous, acidic, and sweet. If you look closely, you can see the outline of a small shrimp under the seaweed, just behind the first cube of rhubarb.

Tartar and wood sorrel, juniper, tarragon

The iconic noma dish – a masterful balance of flavors. The wood sorrel, with its lemony brightness, is a perfect foil for the beef. Interestingly, this was served at the end of the Manresa dinner when a 48-day aged ox was used. This beef had a far milder taste, as it probably was not aged as long. Eating the dish with one’s hand, while a simple and common practice, helps further connect one with the food and the environment. This recipe is quite the hit in Denmark as I had a larger version for lunch the next day – at a different restaurant.

Razor clams and parsley, dill and mussel juice, horseradish snow

Aka the giant slug stuck in the sewage pipe. The clams, like the squid and shrimp before it, were of extraordinary quality but this dish employed a few molecular gastronomy techniques I dislike – unnatural agar agar textures and snow. The texture of the parsley jelly was a bit too congealed and disrupted the clam’s texture. The snow was too cold and obstructed the full taste of the clam. The clam in the mussel juice, with some horseradish incorporated sans snow, would have been an excellent continuation of the seafood motif – the concept was strong and its presentation resonated with the natural influences of the restaurant.

Fresh cheese, Axel berry shoots, watercress

The axel berry shoots exemplifies the noma ‘everything should be considered as an ingredient’ approach and the rewards that come from such risks. What probably does not even make it to most kitchens was one of the most amazing things I have tasted in my life. The leaves, when bitten, secreted an almond-like oil that covered the mouth, much like olive oil. It was a sensational effect that unfortunately over-shadowed my concern for the rest of the dish.

Langostine and söl

As good as many dishes were, this langostine, a perfect specimen if there ever was one, stole the noma show. Barely cooked, plump and sweet, born and bred just for me, this langostine could only be eaten by itself – it was too perfect. The presentation was equally beautiful, harkening back to more primitive times. (One is supposed to pick up the langostine with one’s fingers and wipe it across the stone and into the oyster sauce.)

Asparagus and woodruff, Shoots of fiddlehead, hops and bull rush

A great egg, from a chicken eating whatever they please, particularly during Spring, has many herb-like undertones. The greens in this dish, by themselves, were quite strong and high strung but the herbaceous egg yolk calmed and unified them. This is one of those “you can eat that?” dishes, resembling a forest floor more than haute cuisine.

Ashes and leeks, Mussels and king crab

Turbot and vegetable stems, pickled elderflower berries

Lobster and saladroot, hip rose and currant wine

Marrow and pickled vegetables

A nice respite from the never-ending food parade – a great way to cleanse the palate and pep up. The marrow obviously provided counterpoint, although there were some quite large pieces hiding in there. I have become addicted to pickled vegetables since my Kyoto visit and this dish makes me wonder how wonderful noma might be during the Winter.

Musk ox and milk skin, new young garlic and ramson onion

Birch juice and birch syrup, spanish chervil and honey

Beet and garden sorrel, crème fraiche and pickled hip roses

Walnut powder and ice cream, dried cream and dried berries

It is a restaurant that can be enjoyed with a single visit but it will, assuming Redzepi continues his development, reward the frequent visitor even more as the seasons speak. Different seasons are sure to bring a wide variety of tastes – it is a cuisine connected directly to the whims, fancies, and randomness of the Earth. Then consider that winter will bring a variety of preservation techniques (smoked, dried, pickled.) It is a restaurant whose excitement is hard to contain – from the enthusiastic staff and their obvious delight and commitment to the restaurant’s ideals to the endless possibilities with the philosophy they’ve chosen. It may require one to re-calibrate their conception of fine dining but the potential exists for the meal to change paradigms around those same concepts.

The totality of Redzepi’s cuisine could be ten years down the line as he fully exploits the bounty of his land. When one considers the diversity of ingredients to choose from, and explore over time, the sheer potential for range and nuance of flavor is staggering. And considering that it is already highly influential within its own region,⁴ the potential for the region’s restaurants to deliver innovative cuisine over many years makes Denmark a food destination whose stock may only rise. Spain revolutionized fine dining but its innovations can be applied anywhere; whereas, the unique ingredients that noma cooks with can only be found in Denmark.

I would like to go back – tomorrow.

- chuck

1 – One of the great benefits to running a cult fine dining blog includes making friends with fellow bloggers.

2 – This could very well be Marc Veyrat from the pictures I’ve seen but, having never eaten there, I am not certain.

3 – Yes, there are certainly others but I do not know if I’ve eaten at them.

4 – It is a classic case of Schumpeter’s creative destructionism – rather than improving on the status quo, completely reinvent the market. Here, Rene Redzepi eschewed olive oil, heavy cream-based dishes, and foie gras for local foraged products; and turned his philosophy into a source of regional pride. Creative economics students with an interest in food could write a very interesting case study, or thesis, on noma. There could also be an interesting project in exploring the Nordic food cluster using Michael Porter’s theories on clusters – get some funding and report!

Raw Scottish lobster, killed seconds before serving

Sawa is more like a private club than restaurant, many of the customers fiercely loyal and oft-repeating. Yes, much of the clientele is wealthy and male – many of the conversations revolve around exotic cars and watches – that’s just the demographic of the place.¹ But more so than most places, customers build a rapport and relationship with Sawa, thanks to the intimacy of the restaurant.² It is a continuous journey through the seasons with Steve-san serving as your guide.³ The first-time visitor can be intimidated but if their love of food shows, which should be hard to suppress with fish this sensational, the fish club will be more than welcoming – we are there to eat.

The pictures below were from a five-hour meal last week, enjoyed with three friends (and a few more sitting at the bar – the place is like Cheers.) Not everything is pictured – only the photos that turned out. Note-taking mode was turned off – this is a post to keep your virtual appetite whetted while the Noma, Geranium, and The Sportsman posts write themselves. It was a sensational meal and it has been included in the A1 Best Meals category.⁴

- chuck

1 – If you listen closely at Masa, Urasawa, or Kuruma; you will hear the exact same conversations. If you are fortunate enough to visit Japan, and visit a top-tier sushi restaurant, the men having these conversations (most 45+) are also accompanied by 18yr old women with day-glow fingernails and glitter mascara; again, it’s just the demograhic.

2 – There are rarely more than 5-6 customers at any given time.

3 – I have been on this journey for 10 years now!

4 – A trend that will be repeated with upcoming posts.

vichyssoise chasseur (before pour)

Beginning with my first Ubuntu lunch, and running over what will likely be the next few months, the restaurants being reviewed all share a common loose thread. Manresa, Noma, Ubuntu, and The Sportsman are forging ahead with similar ideas of nature, locality, and fine dining. Others like Coi and McCrady’s are gravitating towards a similar approach. All of the chefs use “molecular” techniques but they have applied them toward expressing the food and season, understanding and exploring the underlying ingredients, instead of promoting a dinner theater. As mentioned in the Manresa post, in reference to Daniel Patterson’s “Carrots are the new Caviar“, a “fine dining” ingredient does not necessarily have to be “luxurious”; but, instead, it should merely allow a chef to fully express themselves.³ Chef Fox’s food is probably the most conceptual when it comes to vegetables (he has an advantage since that is his sole focus) but the pictures will tell the tale. A healthy respect for Michel Bras is served with each dish in each of these restaurants.

The notes for this meal were scarce; and the titles below are not official. At best, they will merely serve as teases that entice you to make a reservation now. The Bay Area bounty is still plentiful and, while some of the ingredients below have passed through their season, an upcoming lunch is mandatory (for me) to discover what new creations await.

carrot & nasturtium

the infamous pea dish (before consumme)

seven degrees of beets

carta da musica

radish stew

savory expression of orion fennel

grits

sweet expression of orion fennel

rhubarb float

- chuck

1 – Yes, Chef Fox knew I was coming.

2 – This reminds me of one of my current obsessions – Deadwood – and the George Hearst character, “Boy the Earth talks to” – though his talent is for discovering rare metals, not cooking. The writing, and acting, on this show eclipse my former favorite – The Wire – and, if you happen to run into me, and if I know you have any interest in literature, you will have to listen to me rave about the show and its greatness.

3 – People are often surprised that my idea of fine restaurants rarely coincides with theirs – theirs being the stereotypical notion of a “fine French restaurant” with heavy doses of cream, fat, diamond necklaces, and stuffy suits. Fish will always be my first love, my workout regime requires an ample dose of protein, but I have learned through my dining adventures that vegetables are often just as exciting.

Crisp Chickpea & Flowering ROSEMARY sphere – stuffed with romesco

I have made a habit of stopping in quarterly, though blog entries are less frequent, to check out new dishes. Last year, Julot: Ze Blog and I went and he proclaimed it one of the most exciting US restaurants he had visited on his trip. I agreed but it was not in my top tier – it had hints of greatness but often settled for casual comfort-type food. Subsequent meals saw the menu changing, creeping ever so upscale with each return visit, but still fractured between comfort and haute, stuck in a minor identity crisis.

And then there was this meal, pictured below ² – tight, cohesive, near pitch perfect – springtime Napa on a plate – a Michelin two-star meal in my book. (Ingredients in ALL CAPS come from Ubuntu’s bio-dynamic garden.)

Cool “forager’s chowder” – NETTLE ice and condimento, WOOD SORREL

A cool essence of nutty nettles – a great beginning to a sunny Friday afternoon in Napa. The ice did not dominate and null the taste buds as is common in dishes of this type; the “chowder” sufficiently blanketed the ice to prevent this.

Tiny D’Avignon Radishes – ‘goat’s leap’ hyku layered with nori, black salt

2X Shucked PEAS and GOLD SHOOTS in consomme of the shells – white chocolate, CHOCOLATE MINT, macadamia

A genuinely Michelin 3-star dish that is balanced, delicate, and sublime. The peas have a remarkable natural sweetness that is enhanced by further hints of sweetness, courtesy of the broth. From there, the salt from the macadamia kicks in before another round of creamy sweetness from the white chocolate. As the white chocolate taste rescinds, along with its slight coating, the chocolate mint has a quick bright burst at the end. This is accomplished, easily one of the best dishes in America, available for a remarkable $12 from the a la carte menu.

Six Degrees of FORONO BEETS – hazelnut “soil”, avocado, WATERCRESS, rhubarb pickle

How many ways can a beet be prepared? In one dish? The “dirt” is a favorite device of irony for chefs creating vegetable-centric dishes but this dish was not an imitation, or parody, of any other. Each bite was filled with similar, yet different and contrasting, flavors and textures of beet. In some bites, the flavors might be a touch muddied but this is a remarkable dish that could be on par with the peas with a bit more tinkering. Its appearance obviously takes nods from El Poblet or Noma, which often remind me of the strange landscapes found in Yves Tanguy paintings.

Carta da musica, Our crisp Sardinian Flatbread – topped with the SPRING GARDEN, truffled pecorino

The garden on a plate. Each bite, of mostly raw vegetables, was a medley of flavors and textures. While the pea dish was the best in composition, this dish showcases the freshness of the garden’s bounty. If one dish could change one’s view on nature and food, this might qualify. Can one can eat all of the weeds and flowers on this plate? The truffled pecorino was surprisingly aromatic and its truffle flavor lingered with each bite of the salad. A stunning dish that should not be missed in Spring.

Rosecoe’s Asparagus, Terrine of Black Trumpets & Brioche – “Virtual Egg” flavored with saffron, SYLVETTA ARUGULA, preserved lemon

“Blood Sausage” Slider – PURPLE VIENNA KOHLRABI stalk frites, violet mustard and CHARD STEM dripping sauce

This was the only mis-step of the meal and it showcases where my ideal of Ubuntu potentially differs from the restaurant’s vision. The previous dishes that celebrated vegetables and their essences are what elevate Ubuntu from “vegetarian restaurant” to a top-tier restaurant in America. Dishes, like this, meant to resemble meat dishes, bring the caliber of the food back down to “vegetarian restaurant.” The original mantra of the restaurant was “a celebration of vegetables, not vegetarianism” but the meat-facsimile dishes make the case for the latter instead of the former.

BORAGE Gnudi in Brown butter with flowering SAGE – preserved SHITAKE, meyer lemon, AGRETTI, and tender SEED PODS

Pane Frattau… An Interpretation of a Sardinian Classic – slow-scrambled egg, three FENNELS, three-day strawberry soffrito

The SPRING FLOWER POT – LAVENDAR custard, bee pollen crumble, rhubarb

The flow from savory to sweet was seamless, with the gorgeous presentation providing an exclamation point to the already easy-on-the-eyes lunch. The lavendar custard was not terribly sweet, which I appreciate, but the bee pollen crumble added sweetness and texture. The rhubard provided some acidity and counter-point to the copious amounts of lavendar greatness. The meal could not have ended on a better note – a perfect integration.

Mini Vegan CARROT cupcakes - “cream cheese” frosting, tiny candied PURPLE HAZE CARROTS

Some critics complain that the restaurant will never warrant multiple stars because it does not serve meat. It seems like an arbitrary distinction as to what constitutes good and great – one can have a three-star meal without, say, seafood (or vegetables for that matter.) There was no reason to serve meat in this meal; it was completely unnecessary in the progression of plates. What I do wish Chef Fox would do is focus more on vegetable dishes and their essence, as opposed to vegetable dishes that resemble meat dishes. There is great potential in a meal of this type where the tastes and textures greatly outnumber a more traditional meat-based tasting menu. This meal, which had such a quality, would rank high in the list of international meals available on that day. The bar has been raised considerably from last year and it will be interesting to see if the momentum continues throughout the remaining seasons.

Spring is the time to go; if you can not go now, my second lunch from a few weeks ago will be posted shortly.

- chuck

1 – Boring in the context of what Chef Fox is capable of creating. There are better pizzas out there; and there is better pasta. What there is not better are vegetable-centric dishes that push our traditional notions of taste and texture.

2 – Yes, the chef knew I was coming for lunch.

Ryugin popped on my radar when Chef Michael Cimarusti (Providence, Los Angeles) mailed me a DVD of Yamamoto performing cooking tricks that resembled a hybrid of Homaro Cantu’s (Moto, Chicago) high-tech-ery and Adoni Aduriz’s (Mugartiz, a favorite of mine) more organic approach. Indeed, as I did more research, I learned that Yamamoto and Aduriz were great friends, citing each other as influences and inspiration. The food at Mugaritz has an underlying Asian twist and it is possible to see how the two could find common ground to push each other further.³ A few inquiries found that, while experimental, Ryugin still had the Japanese attention to ingredient quality. The restaurant seemed to be at the forefront of an Eastern response to the largely Spanish molecular gastronomy “movement.”

Ryugin was slotted for the “experimental” dinner during the Japan trip – Aronia de Takazawa just looked too sterile. It would be interesting to see how, if at all, Ryugin would provide insight into Hyotei’s uber-traditional approach or Koju’s ingredient purity. When the chef at Koju mentioned that he & Yamamoto studied together, and maintained a very close relationship, my curiosity was further piqued. The ingredients and precision at Koju were beyond approach; would Ryugin fulfill this promise while at the more experimental side of the spectrum?

Yes, it could, but with quite an unexpected twist. There was none of the hallmark trickery that is generally associated with the restaurant (and still referenced in current magazine mentions.) Here was a man, known as for burdock root wine corks and functional bar codes that could be scanned with cell phones, committing to ingredients and taste. This was one of the best meals of my life. Not only were there no blatant mis-steps, but some of the ingredients and dishes will serve as reference items for the future. The meal had a “warmth”, or familiarity, that was missing from Koju; and I suspect this makes it slightly easier for a novice Western palette, such as mine, to rave about it.

“Ichiban Dashi” soup with puree of matsutake mushroom
A clear soup of (presumably) the classic first soaking of dashi broth (kelp and bonito) with a matsutake puree substituted for dried mushrooms. The flavor was very “clean” while the puree gave it a subdued earthy complexity.

Deep-fried seaweed, stuffed with Uni
Very delicate frying, the uni, from Nagasaki, was “raw warm” (slightly warmed but more or less raw.) The uni was sweeter and brinier than the Hokkaido uni I had been eating on this trip and it would rank atop most, if not all, of the uni I’ve eaten. The textural components of this dish were also fascinating as the batter had the slightest crunch, slightly augmented by the seaweed, and then all gave way to the creamy uni.

Aichi Figs w/ Port-flavored Foie Gras Terrine, served with sesame cream
This goose was fed white corn and figs to sweeten its liver; and those same staples accompanied the foie gras on the plate. The port flavor was slight, just enough to offset the intense creaminess and richness of the foie gras. This was every bit as good as The French Laundry foie (which was my previous favorite.)

Blue Swimming Crab and Shanghai crab (with roe aplenty!) topped with Chrysanthemum Gelee
This reminded me of an Urasawa dish on steroids – absolutely delicious. In a way, it could be interpreted as Japanese decadence – crab and roe. It worked well coming after the foie, its lightness and brightness a reprieve from the much richer foie gras.

Ryugin’s House Special – contrast of two abalone pieces – one steamed for ten hours, the other shabushabu for 10 seconds
The steamed abalone had an excellent texture – yielding but compliant – but this dish couldn’t live up to the sensations of its predecessors. The abalone pairs well with the earthy mushrooms but this course, for me, was an interlude between great pleasures.

Assorted Sashimi “Ryugin Style” – TREMENDOUS!!
Two pieces of each fish were served, one to be eaten with the dot of sauce next to it, the other with soy sauce. I could not follow the directions because the quality of fish was extraordinary. I could not bring myself to sauce it enjoyed it pristine and unadorned.

Red Snapper from Osaka area – The waitress explained the waters around Osaka are *very* turbulent and that the fish caught there are quite strong. She said the meat would not be buttery; but, instead, quite muscular and tough. Muscles taste great – I could taste the ocean with each bite. There was a depth of flavor – strong followed by waves of subtly – that I’ve rarely experienced. It was as if the Osaka currents were unleashed into the mouth. This was the single best bite of fish if my life. This bite alone justified the trip.⁴

Beluga Cavari w/ Squid – The chef has a reputation for amazing knife skills and they were in full display here. The squid unfolded into a ten-inch ribbon with further cuts throughout to soften its texture. Raw squid in Japan bares no resemblance to anything you find in American restaurants – its taste and texture might as well be a different animal.

Hommard bleu from Bretagne – “Kaiseki” in Tokyo can take some liberties, and this addition was certainly odd thematically, but this slightly seared piece of lobster could be served at L’Arpege and fit right in.

The toro, after these fireworks, was the weakest but that is only because relativity can be cruel. On any other plate at any other restaurant, this piece of toro would be regarded as a highlight of a meal – fatty, melting, with nice kick of flavor.

Egg Pudding made with Hamo’s Bone Stock, Flavor of Autumn
The egg pudding, a chawan-mushi of sorts, was also mixed with monkfish liver. It was remarkably smooth and silky but robust thanks to the richness of the ankimo. The dish, with a slight resemblance to a full moon, represented the harvest season.

Char-grilled Natural Large Eel w/ Aroma of Japanese Peppers, monkfish liver
The waitress explained that most eel, even in Japan, is farmed; but that the chef has a special connection for wild eel. The wild eel in Japan, again, bares little resemblance to anything I have eaten in America. The texture has an integrity often missing in America but its taste has the waves of flavor described above in the Osaka red snapper sashimi dish.

Grilled Pigeon
The menu merely read “grilled meat course” and I was slightly disappointed that it was not beef (I had not had beef with only two days to go) but, as the picture shows, the pigeon was grilled textbook perfect. The “japanese mashed potatoes” – soy husks that had been pureed – were surprisingly addictive and comforting. The truffles, while not amazing, gently perfumed the puree.

Chef’s Rice of the Day
The white bowl of steamed rice at the end of kaiseki meals is jarring to me. It just does not seem to fit into a narrative of a meal, no matter how hard I try to link the connections.⁵ Ryugin chose to flavor his rice dish (he actually served two) and that provided a comforting, yet appropriately concluding, dish for the fantastic meal. Several types of rice were used and the grains were distinguishable in the mouth. (I do not remember the flavors of the rice.)

Fresh Compote of Pear and Small Grapes with Plum Wine Soda Gelee
The fruit was very fresh, the plum wine soda crisp, and this palette cleanser definitely popped, but the soda gelee might have been too carbonated for my tastes.

Caramel Ice Cream with “Wasanbon Sugar”, served with grated Milk-Curd
This was a world-class dessert – the wasanbon sugar, native to Japan and very limited, gave the caramel a quite different flavor. The grated milk curd on top, nutty in flavor, was so delicious that I probably would not complain if it was placed atop my toro. This was crazy delicious.

Baked Chestnut Cake, served on Full Moon presentation
Yamamoto is known for the visual flare of his dishes and this one was striking from an artistic point of view. It could not match the natural beauty of Koju’s autumn plate but this dish is probably more emblematic of the chef and his personality. Where traditional kaiseki would opt for muted traditional pottery, this dish vibrated with color and energy.

This was a kaiseki meal in spirit but it obviously took a few liberties – French lobster and pan-Japanese ingredients. Purists might argue with the approach but the meal felt like a modern, not experimental, version of the more traditional Hyotei and Koju. The food is not as austere, yet subtlety and ingredient quality were not sacrificed. Such steps took the edge off of the obtusiveness I felt with the other meals – and made it more accessible to this Western palette.

The restaurant has only received two Michelin stars but this meal was decidedly three-star material; at a price point that is very compelling when compared to European establishments ($250/person before alcohol.) When thinking of the greatest meals on this planet, given my still limited experiences, this would have to rank alongside L’Arpege, Pierre Gagnaire, El Poblet, Michel Bras, and presumably Noma⁶ for the absolute essentials of world-class eating.

For a review of a near-identical meal one day before, read Krugiste’s Ryugin review at her blog. She also brings up a great point that I completely agree with (based on my limited experiences of course) – there are very few mistakes in Japanese dishes. There is a reverence for perfection, every single time, that is lacking in French and Spanish two- and three-star restaurants.

Eat Show and Tell also had a near-identical meal with excellent pictures. Exile Kiss has an excellent review during what looks like the transition period from experimental to contemporary.

I suspect that Ryugin will begin appearing on “best restaurants in the world” lists next year. Noma seems to have captured the hearts and minds of food writers this year, but I think Ryugin will become a media darling soon enough.

- chuck

1 – I use the word “possibly” because I don’t know the techniques behind the food I ate. Regardless of the techniques, the chef assuredly draws from his historical experiments for inspiration and ideas.

2- This is a quote from the waitress, who also heads up international PR (and speaks perfect English.)

3 – This is, of course, speculation on my part.

4 – I say this with only a bit of hyperbole.

5 – And I say this knowing that half of the world enjoys nothing more than a simple bowl of white steamed rice.

6 – I have not eaten at Noma proper but I did try Rene Redzepi’s food at Manresa.

As the number of choices in the US dwindle due to inconsistent or inadequate quality;¹ I was very curious, and skeptical, if sushi (and raw fish in general) was “that much better” in Japan. The fish is not necessarily fresher since many high-end places air ship it from Japan; what does it matter if the fish is sitting in a restaurant waiting for dinner, or on a plane? Since business connections are made over many years in Japan, was it possible that native practitioners had access to higher quality ingredients? And what of the sushi itself – could its art form be more elevated from the highest expressions on American soil? Time was at a premium, and there were many non-sushi places to try, but I ear-marked Sushiso Masa as “the place” based on a friend’s (offline) report.

This was the third sushi meal, the last in a survey of Tokyo sushi at different price points. Kyubei, one Michelin star, was a surprising value for lunch ($75 US/person) but the quality was no better than Sushi Yasuda. Dinner is more serious and others have reviewed it to high praise. A lunch spot, the name I forgot, in Ginza was another surprise value for $25 US/person – nothing was extraordinary – but everything was of high quality. My expectations for Sushiso Masa grew since it promised to compete on a higher level.

The ingredient quality defied description, particularly for American taste buds. Piece after piece changed my conception – taste and texture – of the fish being served. There are complexities and arcs in the taste that are rarely found in the US. Ingredients like wild eel and octopus bore faint resemblance to their namesakes, a feat repeated the next day at RyuGin. The effect is not unlike eating at Chez Panisse for the first time, where one’s eyes are opened to the true possibilities of the ingredients. This was but one meal and one wonders what revelations other seasons might produce when the fish change waters.

The meticulousness of the sushi was on par with a Masa (NYC) or Urasawa, but more consistent throughout the meal. The rice was warm, seasoned, where each grain could be distinguished in the mouth. One might say it was risotto-like once bitten into. As good as the fish was, the rice stood up and complemented the fish, the two symbiotic. Thirty-five pieces were passed, many of them white fish, but their taste and texture never repeated.

But the stars of the night may not have been raw – the grill was turning meat into gold. Etxebarri (Axpe, Spain) gets international accolades for his grill skills, but, while very good, most of his dishes come off very smoky. Sushiso Masa’s grill man took a more deft approach: the fat in between the charred skin and “cooked raw” meat of a swordfish gave way like melted butter, a pike conger eel had hints of sublime smokiness; and a shrimp shell had the redolent taste of a faint char.

The pictures throughout this post are in completely random order.

While I rarely discuss price on this blog, this meal was cheaper than eating at top-tier places in the US; and the quality was an order of magnitude better. It was nirvana. The memory of the sushi beckons me.

Michelin lists a handful of sushi restaurants – Mizutani (3-star), Sawada and Kanesaka – and while Sushiso Masa is not listed, there is no question it would at least fall into the 2-star level, based on the pictures I’ve seen (and, of course, the meal I ate.) I would give it three without hesitation. There are probably dozens of sushi bars reminiscent of Sushiso Masa in Tokyo, hiding in plain view, catering to the highest levels of taste and perfection. Seek them out.²

Phone: 03-3499-9178 (note: you must speak Japanese)

- chuck

1 – After eating at Sushiso Masa, it’s hard to validate eating sushi in the US – I would rather forgo sushi and let the fish procreate. However, if I’m in the mood and in the right area, I would eat at these places: Sawa, Urasawa, Kuruma, and Masa. Sushi Yasuda is also recommended but it can be maddeningly inconsistent. There are probably a few more places throughout the country that are worthwhile, but certainly just a few.

2 – Here are a few reviews I have found:

• Kanesaka at Josephmallozzi’s Weblog
• Sawada at Krugiste’s Picasa page (mouth-watering pictures!)
• Sushi Mizutani at Exile Kiss, Zoces Globetrotting, and Peter’s World Tour 2008.
  ]]> http://www.chuckeats.com/2009/02/11/sushiso-masa-nishiazabu-tokyo-nirvana/feed/ 29 http://www.chuckeats.com/2009/01/06/perfect-meal-for-2008/ http://www.chuckeats.com/2009/01/06/perfect-meal-for-2008/#comments Tue, 06 Jan 2009 08:56:14 +0000 chuckeats http://www.chuckeats.com/?p=269 Using the same idea from last year, here’s my perfect meal for 2008 – comprised of dishes I ate in 2008. It is obviously not a perfect meal as there’s an abundance of seafood dishes but these were the dishes that impressed me most. I ate out a lot more than I planned, and the list reflects the geographic and cultural diversity of my adventures.

  Interestingly, the list reads very different from my best meals. Masa (NY) and Urasawa (LA) kept serving me the best sushi of my life with each successive visit but it would be impossible to list just one dish – those meals are systems with emergent properties; the same would go for Sushiso Masa in Tokyo too. The only memorable dish at Le Meurice was the first entry in this list. Take this for what it is – a fun compilation of great dishes that serves as an obligatory “year in review” post – not necessarily the great meals of the year.

  I’ve left the original descriptions mostly intact, with the restaurant names linked to the original reviews, with two restaurants not having been reviewed yet (Sushiso Masa and Ryugin.)

  
  Le Meurice – Paris, France – Sardine with quinoa

  The sardine with quinoa, an exciting take on sushi, was the best bite of the night, and possibly the (summer France) trip. The proportion of quinoa to sardine was perfectly balanced, the work of an Urasawa or Masa. The slight pop of the quinoa elevated the bite to masterpiece – this could be a new sushi.

  
  Providence – Los Angeles, CA – House-cured Tasmanian Sea Trout, Mint, Caviar

  A stunning bite with a medley of textures. The sea trout belly was pristine with a luscious oily mouth-feel. The caviar and mint broke up the fat, while the caviar and puffed rice popped with each bite. It’s on the busier side but it was a remarkable bite of balance, flavor, and texture.

  
  Sushiso Masa – Tokyo, Japan – Lightly grilled swordfish

  One of the best bites of my life, thanks to the precision grilling and a just-melting layer of fat between the skin and meat. Stupendous.

  
  Sa Qua Na – Honfleur, France – Daurade poche au citron vert, feuilles de liveche & coriandre, un bouillon clair a la noix de coco et huile de Combava

  A piece of sea bream was placed in a stone bowl and it was (barely) cooked by a broth of coconut and lime oil. Fresh leaves of lovage and coriander were added. This is a signature quality dish – a tantalizing blend of careful flavors, none overpowering the fish, all masterfully balanced. A mix of east and west that would be difficult to improve – the sort of precision and refinement I would hope to find at Olivier Roellinger (and wish to see at L’Astrance.)

  
  McCrady’s – Charleston, SC – Poached Scallop, Fresh Coriander Berries, Mango Vinegar

  This was just a beautiful dish that hit every button for me. The scallops were cooked sous vide in olive oil and presented in a modern style. Again, some strong flavors that were quite balanced. A Manresa-quality dish that shows Chef Sean Brock’s acumen with cooking and ingredients.

  
  Ryugin – Tokyo, Japan – Red Snapper from Osaka area

  The waitress explained the waters there are very turbulent and that these fish are quite strong. She said the meat would not be buttery; instead, quite muscular. The trade-off, of course, was taste – perfect – I could taste the ocean with each bite – a piece of fish that will ruin fish for me in the US. Each bite had a depth of flavor, strong followed by subtle, that I’ve rarely experienced. This was the best piece of fish, among many, during my Japan trip (and my life.)

  
  Koju – Tokyo, Japan – Deep-fried abalone

  The minimalism of the (Koju) meal, and perhaps of all kaiseki, is encapsulated in this dish. The frying on the abalone was beyond reproach – an even thin layer, brought to life and punctuated emphatically by lime and salt. A masterpiece.

  
  Jean Georges – New York, NY – Foie Gras Brulee with Sour Cherry-Yuzu Marmalade

  The crust was tough while the cold foie inside was very creamy. The textural sensations were on par with the tastes; again, a wide range – the hard crunch of the shell, the ’softer’ crunch of the brioche, and the creamy foie inside. The marmalade gave the dish just enough acidity. Excellent.

  
  Ryugin – Tokyo, Japan – Char-grilled Natural Large Eel w/ Aroma of Japanese Peppers, monkfish liver

  The waitress explained that most eel, even in Japan, is farmed; but that the chef has a special connection for wild eel. I couldn’t argue with her – this was even better than the eel I had at Koju the previous week (which changed eel for me.) Words can’t describe and I won’t try – it was remarkable in flavor and texture.

  
  Rene Redzepi (of Noma) at Manresa – Tartar of ox, wood sorrel, juniper and oyster emulsion (RR) (picture from Very Good Food)

  This is a Noma signature so it was fitting to see it on the (Rene Redzepi) menu – but it wasn’t just stuck in somewhere – it belonged here, exactly. I don’t know long the ox tended fields, if at all, but the meat was aged for 48 days. The flavor was gamey, deep, complex, and long-lasting. That alone would have been enough but the other ingredients grounded it (literally?) and connected the meat back to its environment. And to further the connection? Eat with your hands. This was the climatic point of the meal – everything before it had built to this point.

  
  Koju – Tokyo, Japan – Kamasu around matsutake, lime, Japanese beef

  The plating on this dish captures what I assume to be the essence of kaiseki – the season indistinguishable from the food – fall on a plate. The kamasu (barracuda), slightly overcooked by my standards, had a smoky flavor that meshed well with the matsutake. The Japanese beef took the fattiness of wagyu and combined it with an *intense* dry-aged flavor – it was the best of both worlds, right there in three incredible bites. I have read that the Japanese do not dry-age their beef but these morsels had it in spades.

  
  Manresa, Los Gatos, CA – Wood pigeon baked in salt, asparagus “achillea millefolium”

  Pray this is on the menu if you make the trip to Los Gatos – intense flavor.

  It was a great year in dining. The economy may certainly put a damper on 2009’s adventures but I hope to make it to Noma (Copenhagen), Seattle, Tokyo, and possibly Paris if the Euro continues its falls against the dollar. Happy New Year!

  - chuck

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