Carrots (from the garden)

In these days of “locavore this” and “head to tail that”, The Sportsman occupies a near-impossible spot at these (arguably) ecological and ethical intersections. The restaurant sources most, if not all, of its food from its immediate area. But it does not stop there- almost everything is made in-house, going to such extremes as boiling the backyard sea for its salt, which is then used to cure a leg of ham (which wallowed in the meadows across the road.) And every effort is made to use everything, letting little go to waste, feeding said pig with the scraps from the restaurant. It is a sustainable operation with a burgeoning garden in back. The food and ethos remind me of Eigensinn Farm (near Toronto), but the execution at The Sportsman was markedly better on this visit.

Stephen Harris has some Howard Roark inside of him,¹ competing with his inner Michel Bras and Rene Redzepi’s, pursuing his own vision of what it means to own and operate a restaurant emblematic of Seasalter and its history. His commitment to a philosophy, a story about time and place, gives the food meaning.² It is an appreciation, and wonder, of the environment and its possibilities that makes the food delicious. And it is Stephen’s (and head chef Dan Flavell’s) skill and (obvious) obsessiveness that ensure the meal has few, if any, missteps.

This is a lunch from late June. The tasting menu was arranged in advance and I was “known” but I doubt that matters. In fact, the food being served to other tables off of the a la carte menu looked better.³ Felix Hirsch, A Summer of Innocence (sadly, the summer and/or innocence is over), and A Girl Has to Eat had similar meals. The Ulterior Epicure and Food Snob, the anti-Twitter, had a winter meal for comparison’s sake. What you will read, here and there, is uniform praise.

Oyster with home-made chorizio

Pork scratchings

Pickled Herring

The trio of amuses were a strong introduction to the restaurant and its terroir – the land and sea. The oyster’s purity captured the salty and refreshing sea breeze outside. The house-made chorizio’s spiciness provided a familiar partner to the oyster but it also proved to be an interesting contrast in textures and saltiness. The pork scratchings were guilty pleasures – quite crunchy on the outside which gave way to a melting fatty center. The pictured serving is not enough for gluttons. The pickled herring were as good as any in Denmark, bright with a sufficient sour twang. Apple jelly and soda bread accompanied the herring but I preferred it (my fish) solo.

Bread (Soda bread, focaccia, and sourdough), home-churned butter and Seasalter sea salt

Butter and bread, taken for granted at most restaurants by most customers, is rarely treated with the same reverence as the remainder of the meal. When this butter was delivered, its color promised The Sportsman would be different. It had a sweet robustness, a very rich and creamy texture in the mouth, and a nice pinch of salt (from the ocean outside.) There are probably hundreds of great butters throughout the world, particularly across the English Channel in Brittany, but this was among the best I have tried. The breads were as strong as any line-up I can remember, my preference being the slightly sweet soda bread, everyone else the focaccia. The danger here is, of course, eating too much before the meal truly begins.

Rockpool

Stephen delivered this dish and said it was influenced by Manresa’s tidal pool. It is interesting to note the connection, as Manresa has been forging a path similar to The Sportsman. Their styles are different but the underlying theories are similar. The Manresa version is as salty as the sea, whereas this tended toward the herbacious (and somewhat sweet if i recall correctly.) Lemon verbana and fresh-picked herbs from the nearby sea gave it dimension. A fish stock made of the brill (to be served later) was used. It is interesting to see different chefs tackle a similar concept; and it does make one clamor for Stephen to do a Michel Bras inspired salad or a L’Arpege type egg.

Baked oyster with gooseberry granite

Crab risotto

If it was not clear that The Sportsman is influenced by the sea, the crab risotto drives the point home with an intense iodine and crab essence. The rice is purposely overcooked, though I did not find its texture overly mushy, to add to the overall creaminess. If this is available, it should be ordered, and savored.

Seasalter Ham cured in December 2007

The Sportsman cares about its food, which was evidently clear from the previous dishes. It goes beyond attention to detail or deliciousness; this was food made with love (yes, that sounds cheesy; and, if you know me, you’ll rarely hear me talk like that!) It should not have been surprising, then, when the ham came out. But reading the synopsis of the ham (the first picture above, a larger size is here if needed) was one of the greatest moments in my restaurant-eating experiences. Here is a guy, as obsessive as they come, taking it to the next level.

While it may not equal a 36-month aged jamon iberico (my main experience with quality hams), it held its own and that is what matters. We need more high-quality local alternatives around the world. The fat coated the mouth while the intensity of the meat lingered. It had a nice sweetness, probably attributable to the pig’s excellent diet.

Brill braised in vin jaune with smoked pork

A pristine fish, obviously line caught, delivered by the morning fishermen. You can taste the sea in a fresh fish, something one will never know shopping at Whole Foods. When fish is this fresh, I am careful not to taint its pristineness with other elements from the plate, a rare case of not trusting the chef. The pork was good by itself, and it infused the fish with its smokiness, but I could not bring myself to eat them together (that perfect fish!) for the duration of the dish. The vin jaune, however, was exemplary and worthy – creamy and balanced – while remaining impossibly light. This fish died, and cooked, with dignity, avoiding the sacrilegious treatment it would have suffered in the pans of most chefs.⁴

Fried lamb belly

Roast rack of Monkshill farm lamb and braised shoulder

The fried lamb belly was tasty but it felt a little clumsy when compared to the rest of the meal. The braised shoulder would probably do it for most but the texture of braised meats, unless smothered in BBQ sauce or found in a tagine, has never done it for me. The roast lamb, however, was, yet again, exemplary. A very nice piece of meat cooked exactly right – nothing more, nothing less – and, yet, so hard to find.

Elderflower posset

Elderflowers – Fried and Lolly dipped in cake milk

Light and still creamy, the posset was a nice transition dessert that had a strong vanilla flavor. Fried items at The Sportsman, judging from other blog posts, can be variable but I thought the fried elderflower was well done, if even inadvertently. The batter may have been thick but its lattice work had a wonderful texture in the mouth. Cake milk, while quite sweet, was satisfactory on quite a few levels – viscosity and memorial.

Rhubarb sorbet

Tart and refreshing, a great finish to an excellent meal. The rhubarb’s tartness was augmented by the surprise inside (which will remain so) – highly unexpected but completely complementary.

Mignardises

It is an improbable restaurant serving an enchanting meal. It is a vision that requires an obsessiveness over every facet of the meal and it is admirable that a restaurant producing everything themselves can deliver so consistently. The details matter and they were rarely overlooked. The Sportsman has one Michelin star but it delivers a solidly two-star experience, if not three at times.

It was within that critical framework that I could say that The Sportsman, on a trip that included noma and Geranium, was my favorite meal of the week. And right up there for the year. And that it gives me a reason to make a connecting flight through London on subsequent European adventures. It is the type of place Anthony Bourdain will visit next year for his show. A myth in the making.

- chuck

1 – The politics of The Fountainhead are controversial but this is meant as the highest complement, a person pursuing his own vision.

2 – You’ve heard this story before here – it’s a common thread that runs through restaurants as different as Manresa, Ubuntu, L’Arpege, Michel Bras, noma, and much Japanese cuisine.

3 – I don’t know about the lodging options in the area, nor of things to do during the day, but my next visit will include a dinner / lunch, back to back, once ordering a tasting menu, and the other a la carte. The renditions of English staples such as Shepherd’s Pie looked remarkable.

4 – If anything, I am not being dramatic enough!

It wasn’t really this dark outside

The food tasted fine, not quite living up to the memories ¹; but, I walked away feeling unsure about the whole experience. There are fascinating possibilities in the food, and while some are obvious, much of the meal is slightly obtuse, its ultimate enjoyment buried underneath sophisticated techniques and ideas, that may only be known to the chef himself. One gets the feeling s/he is on the verge of discoveries, as there are clues scattered everywhere, but they never quite fully materialize.

Intuitively, I agree with Heston Blumenthal’s basic premise ² – eating food is multi-modal and it is influenced by, but not limited to, context, sight, sound, memories, and anatomy. It is hard to argue this, despite the absolutes in so many of our reviews. Anecdotally, we know that psychological mind-game of expectations has a great influence on the final outcome of a meal. Sights, sounds, and smells act as different triggers for people; personally, a particular sound can bring me back to a very specific point in time, where others describe a similar sensation with smell (and, thus, taste.) It would be foolish to discredit these factors when reviewing the restaurant, particularly when there are so many references scattered throughout the menu.

The problem with Heston’s food is that it’s not clear how much credence we should place in his exploration of these themes. By merely mentioning them, he imbues the food and his menu with their possibilities. But does he actually attempt to explore the psychological and physical landscape he has proposed? Are his efforts substantial or is the whole affair a mere dalliance with science? What insights, if any, does one learn or experience during a Fat Duck meal?

“Sound of the Sea” – is the sound really necessary?

The Sound of the Sea was the only completely new dish on the tasting menu.³ It references similar experiential landscape as El Poblet’s The Living Forest or Abstraction of the Sea, with the “help” of an iPod. Memories, sound, and their combinatorial effects, play a role in this dish but, seemingly, nothing much is accomplished. The repetitive squawk of the seagull, looping every 20 seconds, sounded more simulacra than sea. Why not use the sound in a more constructive manner, as alluded to on the site? ⁴ As presented, it just comes off as (bad) theater, with nothing new learned or gained, detracting from an otherwise interesting dish.

Foie Gras, Truffle toast, and Oak moss – the stages of a dish

The “steaming” oak moss and truffle toast were additions to the Foie Gras parfait and Langoustine cream dish. There were oak film strips in the previous meal (not pictured here) but they were now supplemented by the smell of “steamy” oak moss. This dish attempted to show an understanding of similar and complementary tastes. First, you ate the oak strip to set the stage. Liquid nitrogen was poured into the oak moss, its smell permeating the table, as we were instructed to eat the foie gras parfait. The truffle toast was eaten last. It might smack of theatrics, but it does attempt to create a progression of tastes, smells, and flavors; and, through that, an understanding of the disparate elements and their role in the dish.

The full menu loosely reads as below. Not all of the pictures turned out; in those cases, I did not include them below. Most everyone has the same menu – you can find the same meal at very good food.

Oyster, Passion Fruit Jelly, Lavendar – one of the stronger dishes.

Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream, Red Cabbage Gazpacho – hot and cold

Foie Gras, Truffle toast, and Oak moss – I summon thee

Snail porridge w/ peas and fennel – still the best dish on the menu.

Roast Foie Gras “Benzaldehyde” – interesting play on context. I’ve seen other reports where the dish is described with “almond fluid gel”; for my meal, I get “benzaldehyde”, the primary aromatic compound in almonds.

“Sound of the Sea” – memories and sound, and theater.

Ballotine of Anjou Pigeon

Hot & Iced Tea – the hot/cold could be playing with rates of change.

Dippin’ Stick! (Pine Sherbet Fountain) – memories abound to dipping sticks of our youth.

Mango & Douglas Fir Puree w/ Blackcurrent Sorbet

Parsnip Cereal – there’s a whimsy at play, not unlike The French Laundry.

Nitro-scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice Cream w/ Pain Perdu – the pain perdu steals the show with its incredibly caramelized crust

Mignardises

Does the food taste good? Yes, for the most part, very good. If that’s the final judge of the meal, and many would argue it is, the restaurant is a resounding success, worthy of much of the acclaim it receives. It’s generally fun, imaginative, surprising, and tasty – everything most everyone says when they review the restaurant.

However, on his web site, Heston discusses other factors that influence taste – context (environment and description), rates of change in flavors, site, memory, and anatomy. It is hard to figure out how he might be applying these ideas and theories in the menu. One could argue it adds to the mystery of the meal but I would like to understand, if there is anything substantial, what his objectives might be with each course. What is the point if no one understands what is transpiring? ⁵ With an educated customer base, he could then take his experiments even further.

I think the restaurant could do a few things to help people get the most out of their meals. There is an extensive use of props throughout the meal; why not pass out cards that go with each dish, explaining the intent of the chef? My cynical side might not be so quick to dismiss the squawk of the iPod seagull if I could better understand what the chef was trying to achieve. While probably financially unfeasible, an “experimental” menu that more thoroughly covers the variations (experiment on, experiment off) would be a great way to better understand the concepts of the dishes.

And perhaps that is why the menu never changes – one is expected to peel back the layers with each visit, and potentially discover more. If one were to simply judge by taste and novelty, one or two meals would suffice, as the impact is lessened by the 2nd visit. If one attempts to go beyond, and try to get inside Heston’s head, for better or worse, the standard tasting menu could be repeated a few more times.

Will I return? Yes, in a few years.

- chuck

1 – Given Heston’s pre-occupation with memories, I could turn this post into something resembling a Paul Auster novel, if only I was as talented a writer as Paul Auster.

2 – Read the Philosophy section of the Fat Duck web site.

3 – The menu notoriously never changes (for what reason, no one seems to know.) It appears the dishes are tweaked but it seems like Heston has never explained why the menu remains the same. There is an ala carte menu for those that want to order (presumably) new and different dishes.

4 – In the Philosophy section of the Fat Duck site, Heston describes research where the freshness of fruit can be enhanced through sound:

5 – There are parallels in literature and art criticism where many argue that the author’s intent is nothing but a small part in the overall meaning of a work. I won’t disagree with this sentiment but understanding an author’s intent, no matter how much we may or may not trust him/her, provides additional, and possibly crucial, insight into a work of art.

Cauliflower amuse

Foie Gras amuse

Tuna Tartare with pistachio and invisible yuzo

Mackeral Toast with braised baby carrots

Seared Langoustine with pork jowl and salted orange

Eringe a la Plancha with pine nut risotto

Poached Foie Gras with seared mango and miso

Roasted Pollack with ratte potatoes and saffron

Venison al Carbon with textures of cauliflower

Nashi Pear Sorbet

Dark Chocolate with pineapple mille feuille

Considering the price, 46 pounds, I’ll try it if I ever find myself in London again. It would certainly beat the 100 pound Tom Aikens disappointment from nearly 2 years ago – a meal far worse than my photography in that post.

- chuck

There’s no shortage of accolades for their chocolates – and rightfully so. But their macaroons are deserving of the same attention. The chocolate ganache filled centers, a variation on the typical macaroon, is not so much a point of distinction as it is a confidence in their chocolatier experience. It might sound overpowering but the ganache is subtle and balanced; a complement, never a deterrent, from the shell. The flavors aren’t daring ala Pierre Herme; instead, they are more traditionally paired with the chocolate center. One approach is not necessarily better than the other as long as the execution is exemplary.

La Maison du Chocolat has a more corporate feel than Pierre Herme or Laduree. There’s no cult of personality nor a century-long tradition, but expansion does have its benefits – you can buy them in the States. Eat 2 Love says they are shipped from Paris twice a week. Surprisingly, even with this delay, they keep longer than Pierre Herme or Laduree. The macaroons had their best texture on day two but were still going strong on day four – you can bring these back for friends.

So what are the flavors and how do they taste?

The flavors on this day were LMC’s New Collection:

• Guayaquil – a vanilla shell with a dark chocolate center. The dark chocolate contrasted nicely with the vanilla, which is subtler and less sweet than you’d expect.
• Salvador – a raspberry shell with a raspberry dark chocolate ganache. It would be overload in lesser hands. The ganache had a raspberry “tint” that complemented the sweeter, more pronounced shell.
• Rigoletto – a salted caramel shell with a milk chocolate center. Salt and milk chocolate are a perfect combination – this instantly brought back memories of the Le Bernardin milk chocolate pot de creme “egg.”
• Quito – a dark chocolate shell and center. This was chocolate overload for me. I would have preferred another flavor to break up the onslaught but I would probably be in the minority here.
• Romeo – Kenyan coffee shell with milk chocolate center. Perfect. The smooth, creamy center was the perfect foil to the ever-so-slightly bitter coffee shell.

The texture is everything a macaroon should be. It has a crunch that immediately gives to the teeth but still retains a slight chewiness. The ganache is firmer than the traditional fillings which, in turn, helps its texture even more. The texture is definitely preferred to the Pierre Herme macaroons but I’m uncertain if I prefer them to Laduree or not.

A necessary stop for NYC. If you’re in London, make a stop but be sure to visit Paul Young for chocolates – my favorite in the world. If you’re in Paris, well, you might as well visit Pierre Herme since you can’t get them outside of Parisian soil (except for Tokyo.)

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/fr/

If you are further interested, here’s an excellent article on LMC’s history and techniques for making chocolate.

If i were Michelin, I would give him one big black hole – or a laughing Michelin man. Our meal was so bad that after 2 courses the sick niche1 left knowing his evening would not improve. His wife & I braved the remainder of the courses, although i’m sure we both wonder why today. We could have saved $300-400 if we left with him.

1. Amuses
We were served a plethora of amuses, none of them remotely memorable. My notes, illegible, have adjectives like “salty, oily, greasy” – the remainder i can’t read. Not Good.

2. Chicken Consumme + Celery Gelee + Potatoe Mousse
Notes say first impression unpleasant, followed by an expanding chicken taste that never takes off – one dimensional. Not Good.

3. Roasted Scallops + Sherry Gelee + Cauliflower Puree
Scallops were overcooked on edges, ok in the middle, but lacked any sweetness. The whole dish, as you can probably see, was muddled – no direction, no focus. Not Good.

4. Foie w/ Apple/Gingerbread Crumbs + Apple Gelee
Like others have reported before me, I was served a very bland piece of foie. The crumbs were an interesting effect, giving it a spice dimension, but nothing could save the foie. Not Good.

5. John Dory w/ Red Pepper Puree + Tomato Sauce + Baby Squid
The fish was completely overcooked and completely overpowered by the sauces. We left half of the fish on our respective dishes and told the server the fish was – Not Good.

6. Lamb w/ Sheep’s Cheese + Garlic
Fried lamb nuggets whose cornbread was far too much, obliterated any lamb taste. Braised lamb in a cylinder that was far too greasy. Not Good.

7. Chocolate Mousse w/ Cherry Parfait
Overkill. Not Good.

8. Lemon Rice Pudding Parfait w/ Lemon Gelee + Lemon Ice Cream
An average dessert that was probably the best dish of the night. Ok.

9. Onslaught of Desserts
An onslaught of desserts – none of them even ok. Not Good.

The words that come to describe this meal? A decided lack of finesse, sloppiness, muddled, overpowering (but not good) flavors, bad. This was the worst meal of the trip. Even in my scathing reviews of Pic and Jacques Decoret, there were a few dishes (or ideas) of some dishes of a redeeming nature. Not one here.

Stay far far away.

Official Site: http://www.tomaikens.co.uk/

- chuck

- Toro – I pointed to the one i *really* wanted but i got stuck w/ this piece of crap. Communication barrier – I could not get the decent looking piece. This piece was more maguro than toro.

- Salmon – Nothing revalationary, but then again, nothing horrible. An average piece of salmon.

- Sweet Shrimp - Decent enough

- Large Shrimp - Overcooked/par-boiled

- Maguro – Watery, not much taste, fairly innocuous

- They ran out of uni on a Wed afternoon lunch. How is that possible?

From the menu, i ordered:

- Foie / Wagyu Gyoza - Very disappointing. It was full of rawer ground wagyu w/ some foie in there – it tasted like mud. How is that even possible?

- Wagyu Tartar - They were out of wagyu (it was now explained the gyoza were pre-made when they had wagyu.)

- Shitake Tempura - Greasy but serviceable

- Squid Pasta w/ Mushrooms & Light Garlic Sauce - Hearty and serviceable but hardly refined in any sense

I knew the outcome before i went and i did it anyway. It was probably a blessing to that such nigiri is fashionable and tasty – my wallet had suffered enough on this trip. I left wondering what these people would do if they ever ate a sublime piece of fish.

Compared to the sushi temples across America, Nobu’s fish is not even 2nd-tier. Compared to the food temples across Europe, Nobu’s cooked dishes are not even 3rd-tier.

Stay away.

- chuck

Of all the Michelin 3* restaurants I visited last month (and I made it to many of the important ones), Fat Duck was one of the few that *acted* like a 3*. Despite other restaurant/hotels like Bras & Troisgros, no other restaurant had the production values from top to bottom. The introductory letter asking for childhood food memories sets the stage; the service is effortless & playful; the food does its part; and then they send you home w/ the sealed menu, printed on a very heavy (and costly) stock paper, sealed in wax. The whole thing feels so “honest”; you can sense the chef’s enthusiasm for food *and* experience; instead of his cash register.

The food was in my excellent “second tier” of the trip – L’Astrance, L’Arpege, Can Roca, El Bulli, & Mugaritz – very fine company indeed. (The 1st tier was comprised of just 3 – Gagnaire, Regis Marcon, & Michel Bras.) It was a very solid meal w/ just one or two disappointments – completely acceptable considering the quality of the remaining dishes. It does get better as I reflect back on it.

After eating here, I read through other online reviews; I realized many people had the same dishes I did. I guess the menu doesn’t change that often because it is a destination restaurant. Perhaps there’s a secret code for repeat visitors where you get to try the new creations. Of course, everyone complains El Bulli is a science experiment; here, you just seem to get the hits. I wouldn’t mind a hybrid approach.

My notes for the meal were terrible; I even have some extra photos that I can’t make any sense of.

1.Nitro-Green Tea and Lime Mousse
It’s so cold your mouth will smoke if left slightly opened, I got a slight iron taste. A much more effective palette cleanser than Jacques Decoret’s electrifying flower – a definite wow moment. Excellent.

2. Oyster, Passion Fruit Jelly, Horseradish Cream, & Lavender
Initial burn of horseradish, followed by the passion fruit sweetness, quickly followed by the oyster sea ’sweetness’, and then some more burn. Very Good.

3. Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream, Red Cabbage Gazpacho
A study in temperature differences – hot/cold temperatures and hot/cold tastes. Very Good.

4. Jelly Quail, Langoustine Cream, Parfait of Foie Gras
The foie was very rich & decadent and it had a very long lasting note that was joined by the saltiness of the langoustine cream at the end. Excellent.

5. Snail Porridge w/ Joselito Ham & Shaved Fennel
High quality snails, a very “satisfying” and delicious dish; snail risotto. There is a reason this is probably his most recognizable dish. Excellent.

6. Roast Foie Gras w/ Almond Fluid Gel, Cherry, & Chamomile
The texture was too spongy, similar to Mugaritz a few days earlier, but this was full of taste. Very Good.

7. Sardine on Toast Sorbet w/ Ballotine of Mackerel “Invertebrate” & Marined Daikon
A decent piece of fish but the sorbet was far too cold (and icy); also, very salty. It turns out the sorbet was pre-made and thus it collected those tiny ice crystals that probably shouldn’t be part of a meal of this caliber. Average.

8. Salmon Poached w/ Licorice, Asparagus, Pink Grapefruit, & Manni Olive Oil
The fish was cooked absolutely perfectly – the licorice marred that perfect piece of fish for me – too cloying. I really don’t understand the combination here. Fish – Excellent. Dish – Good.

9. Poached Breast of Anjou Pigeon & Pancetta
Good quality, spiced nicely, a touch greasy. Very Good.

10. Mrs Marshall’s Margaret Cornet
Savory cone w/ a touch of sugar with some sort of “sensation” that i can no longer discern from my notes.

11. Vanilla Stick w/ Citric Powder
A haute version of one my favorite childhood candies – Dipsticks. Rather than dumping all the powder into my mouth as I would’ve done in my youth, I used the vanilla bean “stick” to pick up the powder. Aciditic to the extreme but tempered by the vanilla “calm.” Awesome.

12. Mango & Douglas Fir Puree w/ Blackcurrent Sorbet
No notes on this

13. Carrot & Orange Tuile w/ Beetroot Jelly
No notes

14. Parsnip Chips w/ Parsnip Milk
Some say a “gimmick” but I enjoyed this quick introduction to “breakfast.”

15. Smoked Bacon and Egg Ice Cream w/ Pain Perdu & Tea Jelly
A faithful replication of breakfast. The ice cream was intense, the french toast intensely caramelized w/ a nice custardy inside (but, make no mistake, this was not the greatness of Mugaritz’s french toast); with the tea jelly being an interesting contrast of temperatures – you experienced both hot and cold at the same time.

Overall, an excellent meal that helped conclude my trip. Looking back on my review, I rated nearly every dish highly but I said earlier it was in my 2nd tier (not a bad place to be.) Nothing reached the sublime – everything was just consistently very good to excellent. Something I didn’t expect, similar to El Bulli, was this chef could cook w/ the best of them. It’s not all parlor tricks – there’s a solid base of ingredients and technical expertise that he builds upon.

If i had to rate the three most successful “experimental” restaurants on this trip, it would be Gagnaire, Fat Duck, Mugaritz, and then El Bulli – fine company indeed. The only thing that would keep me away is an even poorer exchange rate – England is not cheap.

Gastroville rated the restaurant with less enthusiasm, calling into question their ingredient quality. Their review was written in Mar 2005 and while they are far more sensitive to ingredient than I, our meal had an “organic” feel with high quality ingredients.

- chuck