This is Rome before the fall – French haute cuisine in its heyday – one man in pursuit of his own perfection – an artisan only serving what he deems worthy of his absolutely high standards – priced accordingly. The Tuesday lunch was filled with many proclamations, some implied, others on proud display – the highest-bidded (200kg+) tuna of the day from Tsukiji, broken down in front of us, to the house-made bottarga – served unadorned, its genius laid bare – its intense briny concentration tremendous. A fair amount of fish available is not served – cut, inspected, re-inspected, and tossed – presumably because it did not meet some internal standard, as it should be in more restaurants across the world.

The cold bowl of uni (origin forgotten) was beyond pristine – look at the picture and its tongue-like surface intact – an extraordinary salvo near the beginning of the meal. That dish alone encapsulated the entire experience – the utmost complexity masquerading as simplicity. Rarely is uni served in a cold brine (in the US, at least) and, yet, why should it be served otherwise?

After the sashimi courses, the sushi comes, piece after piece. It is a story of the sea – to the day – as told through a master story-teller. The chuotoro was the star on this day, combining the luxurious fatty mouthfeel of toro but retaining the strong flavor of the best maguro. If you look carefully at the various nigiri, you’ll see the intricate cuts in most pieces of fish – not unique to Sawada of course – but there are many lessons in those cuts – keys to deciphering the different textures of each fish.

Aged tuna? The previous Sunday’s lunch included the object of black art². Its taste was more intense, somewhat analogous to the difference between regular and dry-aged beef. The color correction in that post is a bit off, as the meat could be mistaken for whale, but the meat does have a darker hue to it. It would probably take many meals, throughout seasons and across species, to get a firm (no pun intended), and factual, handle on different techniques used. (I recall reading that Sushi Yasuda preferred to freeze his tuna as the ice molecules break down the fat and yield a more toro-like texture.) There is a lot of misinformation out there and, presumably, amateur practitioners – the results at a place like Sawada speak for themselves.

Is everything perfect? The rice has been criticized by a few patrons as being vinegar-charged, and overwhelming by the end of the meal. The first meal’s rice was charged but not over-bearing, and I quite liked it. The second meal’s rice was mild by comparison and I missed the vinegar. If nothing else, the rice is not consistent. The rice itself did not attain the perfect symbiosis of fish/rice texture of the magical 1-2 pieces at Mizutani (but not even he could sustain that level of perfection for the majority of the meal.)

We were the only people that day for lunch – one of the world’s top sushi chefs – ours. When was the last time Alain Passard cooked just for you?

Go – it costs as much as any restaurant in Europe but it reaches, and attains, a higher perfection.

- chuck

1 – In Tokyo, this includes Harutaka, Sushiso Masa, and Sushi Mizutani. In the latter, the potential exists but it did not deliver on my single meal. I must still try the infamous Sukiyabashi Jiro and the other three-star – Sushi Saito.

2 – Black art or not, this incredible Gastroville post reveals some rare insight into aging tuna – fresh may not always be best. And another post on speared fish and ike jime. Cooking Issues also has a series of posts on ike jime on their excellent blog.

One year later, a few weeks further in the season, the results were no less enchanting. When you look at man through food, his limits might be revealed by his best pieces of sushi.

A Masa meal is a journey through the season, more comprehensive than the other sushi boutiques/bars/restaurants on this visit. Different fish are explored in more detail as they weave in and out of the meal. Raw slices are followed by grilled and later yet by skin or innards. It rivals Urasawa (LA) in the way it explores taste and texture, revisiting and expanding themes throughout. If one were obsessive, the mapping out of fish, cuts, thickness, textures, temperatures, and preparations might reveal untold glories.

While absolutely a temple by American standards, with a potentially intimidating cast of characters at times, Masa is more playful than the rigid Sawada or man-machine Mizutani – the atmosphere is lighter, questions are encouraged, and photos are welcomed.

The highlights of this meal were the bonito (easily besting my old favorite at Kuruma in NYC) and the “salmon who lost his way” (eunuch in more poetic terms.) The only letdown was the grilled baby swordfish – the piece from last year would still make an all-time top 10 list – this piece near the bottom of this meal. The pictures below don’t represent the entire meal – just the pictures that turned out the best – randomly ordered.

Sawada was the revelation on this trip in terms of ingredient quality but Masa provided a different, and equally rewarding, experience. The two restaurants are very different and both are equally encouraged for any visit to Tokyo. Both will be certainties for my next trip. How soon can I return and try Sushi Saito too?

- chuck

(Apologies for the delays between posts. There are big projects in the works that will absolutely interest readers of this blog. Please stay tuned for more frequent entries and more details!)

1 – To be honest, I’m not sure if this is its real name. I found it listed on a web site when I wrote my first review but I can’t find another reference to it. Masa is definitely part of its name.

I will have a lot more to say about this meal – when the post for my second meal comes out. For now, I will say “I have had none better.” I must thank my virtual friend Cathy Ho for bringing this restaurant to my attention ² over a year ago.

It is a temple – that is ridiculously expensive – and it is absolutely worth it.

If the Holidays give me one thing, it might be a chance to begin writing the backlog – Elements (Princeton), New Haven pizzas, Sawada, Koju, Ryugin, Harutaka, Coi, another Ubuntu, and more.

- chuck

1 – Do not fully trust the colors – the lighting was deceptively difficult – and color correction proved challenging. The second batch of photos are much improved.

2 – Yes, it has 2 Michelin stars but her photos made me dream of a return to Tokyo – they gave me purpose!

Raw Scottish lobster, killed seconds before serving

Sawa is more like a private club than restaurant, many of the customers fiercely loyal and oft-repeating. Yes, much of the clientele is wealthy and male – many of the conversations revolve around exotic cars and watches – that’s just the demographic of the place.¹ But more so than most places, customers build a rapport and relationship with Sawa, thanks to the intimacy of the restaurant.² It is a continuous journey through the seasons with Steve-san serving as your guide.³ The first-time visitor can be intimidated but if their love of food shows, which should be hard to suppress with fish this sensational, the fish club will be more than welcoming – we are there to eat.

The pictures below were from a five-hour meal last week, enjoyed with three friends (and a few more sitting at the bar – the place is like Cheers.) Not everything is pictured – only the photos that turned out. Note-taking mode was turned off – this is a post to keep your virtual appetite whetted while the Noma, Geranium, and The Sportsman posts write themselves. It was a sensational meal and it has been included in the A1 Best Meals category.⁴

- chuck

1 – If you listen closely at Masa, Urasawa, or Kuruma; you will hear the exact same conversations. If you are fortunate enough to visit Japan, and visit a top-tier sushi restaurant, the men having these conversations (most 45+) are also accompanied by 18yr old women with day-glow fingernails and glitter mascara; again, it’s just the demograhic.

2 – There are rarely more than 5-6 customers at any given time.

3 – I have been on this journey for 10 years now!

4 – A trend that will be repeated with upcoming posts.

Two months removed from Tokyo, this was my first sushi, not pictured, on American soil since the trip.¹ It was comparable to the better sushi in Japan, falling just a notch below Sushiso Masa. The rice seemed warmer than usual², to the point that it sometimes warmed the fish. It is also clear that a full ten person bar might be too much for Hiro to handle, as sushi and dishes come at an uneven pace – six or eight has been a perfect-sized crowd in the past.

The prepared dishes, pictured throughout, were as elegant and delicate as usual. The hairy crab was my favorite, rivaling the tastes from Koju and Ryugin, but every dish was of a higher quality. The shabu shabu course can be a source of (silent) contention when they help cook it, as I generally prefer raw to cooked, so I immediately took the reins on that course. Hiro has also scaled back on the beef portions and dishes – which is unfortunate. The sperm sac risotto, covered by surprisingly aromatic truffles in the photo below, was a little too “creamy”, if you catch my drift.

As I’ve said before, ingredients rotate in and out of the dishes in an advanced choreography of tastes and textures. The crab began the meal in a bright cool salad, returning later cooked. Uni shines in the sashimi course, plays a support role in the middle of the meal, and then gets featured later as sushi. The ingredients come into focus and out; playing primary, secondary, and tertiary flavors throughout the meal. It gives the meal a tight cohesiveness and a sense of narrative – characters or themes running throughout – highlighting the season.

It is one of my favorite restaurants and I recommend everyone try it at least once. The only caveat is that it is very expensive – and he raised prices again – and I, embarrassingly, let out an audible gasp when I got the bill. The pricing is now Masa-like, solidly the second-most expensive restaurant in the US. If one were flexible, one could fly to Japan for cheaper than a dinner at Urasawa with alcohol.

Pictures are below – it has been too long for any detailed notes but KevinEats, Kung Food Panda, and Food Destination had a similar meal so you can peruse their blogs for detailed descriptions and impressions.

- chuck

1 – Seriously, I do not eat sushi often – I would rather let the fish live and re-populate than to denigrate their memory by eating the crap served most everywhere.

2 – This is probably my tenth trip or so to Urasawa.

As the number of choices in the US dwindle due to inconsistent or inadequate quality;¹ I was very curious, and skeptical, if sushi (and raw fish in general) was “that much better” in Japan. The fish is not necessarily fresher since many high-end places air ship it from Japan; what does it matter if the fish is sitting in a restaurant waiting for dinner, or on a plane? Since business connections are made over many years in Japan, was it possible that native practitioners had access to higher quality ingredients? And what of the sushi itself – could its art form be more elevated from the highest expressions on American soil? Time was at a premium, and there were many non-sushi places to try, but I ear-marked Sushiso Masa as “the place” based on a friend’s (offline) report.

This was the third sushi meal, the last in a survey of Tokyo sushi at different price points. Kyubei, one Michelin star, was a surprising value for lunch ($75 US/person) but the quality was no better than Sushi Yasuda. Dinner is more serious and others have reviewed it to high praise. A lunch spot, the name I forgot, in Ginza was another surprise value for $25 US/person – nothing was extraordinary – but everything was of high quality. My expectations for Sushiso Masa grew since it promised to compete on a higher level.

The ingredient quality defied description, particularly for American taste buds. Piece after piece changed my conception – taste and texture – of the fish being served. There are complexities and arcs in the taste that are rarely found in the US. Ingredients like wild eel and octopus bore faint resemblance to their namesakes, a feat repeated the next day at RyuGin. The effect is not unlike eating at Chez Panisse for the first time, where one’s eyes are opened to the true possibilities of the ingredients. This was but one meal and one wonders what revelations other seasons might produce when the fish change waters.

The meticulousness of the sushi was on par with a Masa (NYC) or Urasawa, but more consistent throughout the meal. The rice was warm, seasoned, where each grain could be distinguished in the mouth. One might say it was risotto-like once bitten into. As good as the fish was, the rice stood up and complemented the fish, the two symbiotic. Thirty-five pieces were passed, many of them white fish, but their taste and texture never repeated.

But the stars of the night may not have been raw – the grill was turning meat into gold. Etxebarri (Axpe, Spain) gets international accolades for his grill skills, but, while very good, most of his dishes come off very smoky. Sushiso Masa’s grill man took a more deft approach: the fat in between the charred skin and “cooked raw” meat of a swordfish gave way like melted butter, a pike conger eel had hints of sublime smokiness; and a shrimp shell had the redolent taste of a faint char.

The pictures throughout this post are in completely random order.

While I rarely discuss price on this blog, this meal was cheaper than eating at top-tier places in the US; and the quality was an order of magnitude better. It was nirvana. The memory of the sushi beckons me.

Michelin lists a handful of sushi restaurants – Mizutani (3-star), Sawada and Kanesaka – and while Sushiso Masa is not listed, there is no question it would at least fall into the 2-star level, based on the pictures I’ve seen (and, of course, the meal I ate.) I would give it three without hesitation. There are probably dozens of sushi bars reminiscent of Sushiso Masa in Tokyo, hiding in plain view, catering to the highest levels of taste and perfection. Seek them out.²

Phone: 03-3499-9178 (note: you must speak Japanese)

- chuck

1 – After eating at Sushiso Masa, it’s hard to validate eating sushi in the US – I would rather forgo sushi and let the fish procreate. However, if I’m in the mood and in the right area, I would eat at these places: Sawa, Urasawa, Kuruma, and Masa. Sushi Yasuda is also recommended but it can be maddeningly inconsistent. There are probably a few more places throughout the country that are worthwhile, but certainly just a few.

2 – Here are a few reviews I have found:

• Kanesaka at Josephmallozzi’s Weblog
• Sawada at Krugiste’s Picasa page (mouth-watering pictures!)
• Sushi Mizutani at Exile Kiss, Zoces Globetrotting, and Peter’s World Tour 2008.
  ]]> http://www.chuckeats.com/2009/02/11/sushiso-masa-nishiazabu-tokyo-nirvana/feed/ 29 http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/11/25/tsukiji-the-sea-burst-onto-the-ground/ http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/11/25/tsukiji-the-sea-burst-onto-the-ground/#comments Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:04:14 +0000 chuckeats http://www.chuckeats.com/?p=264 Tsukiji is the world’s largest fish market – 10x the size of its nearest competitor. This had to be a stop on my trip in Tokyo. Tourists are tolerated but it’s a stressful time – narrow aisles, slippery floors, packed crowds of busy shoppers, and motorized vehicles that are aiming for you from every direction – you have to be alert. And mindful that these people scurrying around are trying to make a living, many owners of small mom and pop shops across Tokyo.

  

  Most of the fish is housed under one gigantic roof that runs seemingly forever. There are hundreds (thousands?) of stalls, most themselves mom and pop operations, that have about 100-150 sqft of “retail” space; and a very tiny office, usually large enough for just a chair and a cash register. The stalls and aisles are generally organized by type of seafood.

  You will obviously see a lot of blood and death – not to mention corpses being hacked by knife and power saws. The seafood runs the entire gamut of possibilities – from the familiar to monstrosities straight out of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. It is fascinating to think of all the permutations of shrimp and fish – and it certainly provides ample excuse for repeat trips to Tokyo sushi spots.

  

  For me, despite salivating over fish and anticipating my upcoming sushi meals, the logistics of this daily operation were one of the most impressive things I saw in Japan, if not ever. Fish is caught around the world, somehow making its way to Tsukiji, all of it finding its place within this gigantic warehouse by 5am. And it is all packed up by 1pm. I don’t think there is a real central planning agency; the whole spectacle makes a great case for bottom-up organization – let people work and they will get things done. (If one wanted to get fancy in their ethnographic, economic, or social studies, there is a lot of material here to play with the ideas of emergence in a social / economic setting.)

  

  It’s a Holiday week so I will leave you with some pictures. If you would like to read more serious pieces about Tsukiji, there is an article and book I will recommed:

  If you Knew Sushi by Nick Tosches for Vanity Fair – an excellent overview of the market and its players. Recommended for everyone.

  Tsukiji – The Fish Market at the Center of the World by Theodore Bestor – this is an ethnographic study of the market, its history, and how it manages to work. The book is full of interesting facts and figures, but it is an academic study so it can be (quite) dry at times too. Only recommended for the die-hard.

  One of a few parking lots
  

  Whale meat / blubber anyone? Despite the moral issues, this stuff looked seriously tasty.
  
  

  Chopping turtles – yum yum
  

  Cutting tuna
  

  The remains of some fish
  

  Some sort of miniature eel
  

  A random stall selling random things
  
  

  An octopus for every size
  

  It might be alive
  

  Some tiny fish
  

  Dried squid
  

  It’s definitely a must-do for anyone that has a passing interest in sushi – just be careful – you can get seriously hurt. Some people recommend the sushi restaurants within Tsukiji but the lines were ridiculously long (I can’t stand lines) and I heard that, while excellent by American standards, the sushi did not compare to the best places (two of which I would later eat at.) But the whole affair, my third day in Japan pre-sushi, made me crave sushi. I managed to snag a same-day reservation later that day at Kyubey (Ginza) for lunch.

  That story will have to wait.

  - chuck

  ]]> http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/11/25/tsukiji-the-sea-burst-onto-the-ground/feed/ 12 http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/03/31/masa-nyc-my-best-sushi-meal/ http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/03/31/masa-nyc-my-best-sushi-meal/#comments Mon, 31 Mar 2008 12:46:38 +0000 admin http://chuckeats.com/blog3/2008/03/31/masa-nyc-my-best-sushi-meal/ How much would you pay for perfection?

  Conventional wisdom (mine included), among those who have eaten at both restaurants, says Urasawa (LA) is a better experience than Masa at one-half the price. It was a case of the student, Urasawa, surpassing the teacher, Masa. The Masa experience has been derided for its exorbitant price and short duration. If you factor these two variables out, and just focus on the food, I had the best sushi meal of my life at Masa this past February.

  I say that begrudgingly because eating at Masa, contrary to its Zen-like atmosphere, is not enjoyable. Before being asked for a drink, the waiter asked me if I’d like to “upgrade” to the kobe beef menu with its $100 surcharge (he might have learned this trick from his buddy Thomas Keller.) This is on top of a $400+/person menu. It’s impossible not to think about the price as you eat each piece of sushi. When the first dish arrived, they scolded me for taking a picture – “no pictures.” My sushi chef, the most junior of the three, did not say a word to me all night – an automaton cutting fish and rolling rice. And, just as you’re getting started, the whole thing is over; for me, during the later seating, it was 1 hour and 45 minutes, and that was stretching dessert out for 1/2 hour.

  But this was the best sushi meal I’ve ever eaten, top to bottom, item for item. Every piece of fish, save the toro, was remarkably fresh and full of flavor. The timing of the meal was certainly a crucial factor – sweet and oily – trademarks of the winter sea. My automaton may not have talked but he was programmed to dole out perfect rice. I don’t remember the rice being better than Sushi Yasuda on my last trip but this was the best rice I’ve ever had.

  The highlights were a deep sea snapper that had a beautiful consistency, its texture redolent of the most perfectly steamed black cod – despite being raw. The saba mackerel was pure heaven. The uni risotto w/ black truffle divine, the black truffles better than a majority of the ones I ate last year during the Truffle Trip. A pickled lotus wrapped around a shiso leaf with a sour plum dot was the perfect palette cleanser (is any chef listening? This was perfect!)

  Their grill guy might give Etxebarri a run for their money – he deserves an immediate pay raise. The grilling was remarkably done – never overpowering, almost always just right (although the grilled white fish was not charred enough.) Very close attention to detail – it appears that’s all he does standing there in the back.

  The only disappointing items were the fried fugu and toro. The fried fugu came nowhere near the magical wonders of that perfectly fried mystery leaf two years ago. The fugu was juicy and tender but the batter was greasy. The toro was very fatty but it lacked much taste. The most senior chef said they were getting it from Boston right now, directly from the fishermen, but I’ve definitely had better from the same waters.

  Irregardless, a truly outstanding meal. The complete menu:
  - japanese peeky toe crab w/ seaweed & yuzu
  - toro tartar w/ caviar
  - fugu w/ its own liver w/ yuzu
  - fried fugu
  - uni risotto w/ black truffle
  - wild hamachi shabu shabu
  - shabu shabu soup

  and then the sushi parade:
  - toro x2
  - shimaji
  - japanese fluke
  - deep sea snapper
  - sweet shrimp
  - grilled white fish w/ black truffle + sea salt
  - grilled scallop
  - grilled toro
  - clam of some sort
  - saba mackerel
  - grilled shitake
  - octopus w/ (potent) black truffle dollop
  - hokkaido uni
  - squid w/ sea salt
  - black truffle ball sushi w/ black truffle dollop – too dry
  - sea eel
  - grilled unagi
  - toro roll
  - pickled lotus wrapped over a shiso leaf topped w/ sour plum – *outstanding* finish

  And a lone slice of very ripe Japanese melon for dessert. My American palette would have preferred an ice cream – oh well.

  I would highly recommend Masa if you are ready “for the next step.” However, I will put disclaimers in that recommendaiton – you must understand what you are getting yourself into. I ate this meal in February when the fish quality is very high (winter = colder waters = fatty and oily.) This was only my second meal at Masa and it could have been an anomaly – my first meal was about 90% of this one. The rice plays equal partner to the fish. It is insanely expensive (even for this blog) – you can not get out for less than $600/person after tax and tip. And, finally, don’t expect a four hour meal – expect two, anything more putting you in the bonus round.

  Would I rather eat at Urasawa? Yes. Will I find myself eating at Masa again? Absolutely.

  - chuck

  Other reviews, both very positive, include Gotham Girl and A Life Worth Eating.

  ]]> http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/03/31/masa-nyc-my-best-sushi-meal/feed/ 8 http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/02/07/sawa-sunnyvale-ca-where-it-all-began/ http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/02/07/sawa-sunnyvale-ca-where-it-all-began/#comments Thu, 07 Feb 2008 08:43:03 +0000 admin http://chuckeats.com/blog3/2008/02/07/sawa-sunnyvale-ca-where-it-all-began/ In college, my business partner and I started a consulting business in the nascent Internet industry. We were paid rather handsomely for our age so we felt justified splurging. We began celebrating each deal with a trip to one of the “fancy” restaurants that dotted our sea-side town. One in particular, Alleycat (Sarasota, FL), revealed a world of high quality ingredients – how did something so simple taste so good? (This revelation would be repeated again at my very first Chez Panisse meal in 2001.)

  

  Alleycat tempted me – yes, you too, can eat like a king – but I was still content with the more mundane offerings that abound in most cities. Food was important but I could not justify, nor afford, what was considered the best. So I continued eating “in the middle” where the bills totaled $100 before tax and tip. In this land, the ingredients were anonymous and interchangeable – a carrot was a carrot, no matter how it was farmed or where it was from. They were building blocks for the greater good.

  

  I was a bright-eyed 24 year old slaving away in Silicon Valley during the .com boom when my boss offered a rite of passage. In my own mind, I was an up-and-comer and he offered me a seat at the table – the power lunch at Sawa. “It’s in a strip mall.” “He only accepts clients he knows.” “The fish is flown directly from Japan.” “It’s unlike any sushi you’ve ever eaten.” “It’s insanely expensive.”

  

  And there I was. And there I ate. And, on that first lunch, I seriously contemplated maintaining a “sushi budget” to ensure I could continue eating the most pristine fish I had ever tasted. The lunch was excellent but it consisted mostly of the standard variety of nigiri – tuna, salmon, toro, hamachi, etc. I fashioned myself more adventurous but those were the limits for this crowd. One day I built up the courage to go it alone for dinner. I walked into a room mostly filled with Japanese businessmen; immediately, everyone stared. Those first few seconds were an eternity. Steve, the chef, came out, squinted, paused, and then welcomed me in. I was in!

  

  He asked me what I wanted to eat and I replied I wanted to be more adventurous than my previous lunches. Granted, adventurous back then meant “something more than nigiri.” I can’t remember the details but I had a feast of sashimi, sushi, and other delectable bites. I learned that ingredients matter – time matters – if you want the best. It all sounds self evident now but, unless you grow up on a farm or in a culture of food, that moment is an epiphany.

  

  Sawa served as a gateway restaurant and I began challenging myself. If this random place in Sunnyvale could serve such incredible fish, there must be other places worth seeking
  out. I tried the infamous Sushi Nozawa (LA) and it didn’t come close. I tried Sushi Yasuda (NYC) and, while the rice was impressive, the fish quality was a step below. On that same trip, I tried Kuruma Zushi and, to this day, it’s the closest to Sawa in terms of fish. But, at the time (2002), these were acknowledged as the two best places in New York City. Where to go from here? Unfortunately, I never made it to Ginza Sushiko (the precursor to Masa, in the space now occupied by Urasawa.)

  

  However, paying $200+ per person for a meal opened up new opportunities. Suddenly, dinner at Jean Georges on a visit to NYC did not seem gluttonous nor unattainable. And then the French Laundry. The list continued to grow – Masa’s (SF), La Folie (SF), Chez Panisse, and more. It became clear to me that the higher-end of dining, ironically enough, generally had more value than cheaper restaurants that were just trying to turn tables. Why go out three nights a week when I can save and splurge once every week or two? Why not pay for quality?

  

  It’s been a quest ever since. Some eat out indiscriminately, hoping to fill some imaginary culinary passport or resume. That’s never been my goal – I would like to find the best – however misguided that might seem. The trip has led me to France, Spain, and a touch of the UK. It’s been a non-stop journey that will hopefully include Japan this spring. But it is obviously a never-ending journey. Philosophically, one could question the idea of an absolute; particularly when you mix in the confounding variables of time, space, and people. There is no question, however, that these enclaves of food reverence must be sought after. They might be listed in guide- and reference books but they are just as likely to be sitting next door as they are at a far corner of the earth.

  

  I’ve been going to Sawa for the past eight years. The sushi budget never materialized, thanks to the .com collapse, but I hung in there. During my first visits in 1999 and 2000, limos lined the parking lot, and Japanese executives lined the counter. There were servers and cooks in the back. Every night was a celebration. Then the collapse – Sawa became, more or less, a family operation again. Over the past four years, success stories like Google and Apple have helped the local economy for leisure goods and Sawa is busy once more.

  It’s a controversial place, for its portions, expense, and exclusivity; but the ingredients are second to none.

  - chuck

  ]]> http://www.chuckeats.com/2008/02/07/sawa-sunnyvale-ca-where-it-all-began/feed/ 6 http://www.chuckeats.com/2007/12/04/gos-mart-canoga-park-secret-suburbia-sushi/ http://www.chuckeats.com/2007/12/04/gos-mart-canoga-park-secret-suburbia-sushi/#comments Tue, 04 Dec 2007 08:15:10 +0000 admin http://chuckeats.com/blog3/2007/12/04/gos-mart-canoga-park-secret-suburbia-sushi/ El Camino Real, stretching across Silicon Valley, is a seemingly endless road that connects one anonymous town to another; with identical strip malls, chain restaurants, and traffic lights every block. But Sherman’s Way, the road to Go’s Mart in Canoga Park, is the same international pastiche of stores and businesses, accelerated 20 years. It’s the horror portrayed in Blade Runner, Snow Crash, and Neuromancer – a future more Brave New World than 1984 – where consumerism runs rampant. Every block advertises tacos, thai, chinese, and sushi – how is anyone to know the wonders that lie behind the back-lit “Sushi” sign at 22330 C-12 Sherman Way?

  
  Shrimp sushi with Uni and white truffle

  Sushi, sashimi, and Japanese dining were my original doorways into haute cuisine, particularly sashimi. You could call it the thrill of the chase. In a world of of always-on information and 3:1 staff to customer ratios, these enclaves of tradition sat hidden and relatively unknown, generally run by husband and wife teams. These places have to be tracked and watched. They would never register on the casual diner’s radar – most don’t advertise, relying on word of mouth and personal relationships. And, even then, access is not always guaranteed.

  
  Ankimo with plum sauce

  I originally learned of a “pretty good” place, complete with “truffles and caviar” that cost “$200/person”, somewhere in Los Angeles. I didn’t know the name but, whatever it was, it certainly wasn’t one of the normal LA suspects – Sasabune, The Hump, or Sushi Nozawa. The price point and ingredient list ensured it would be “serious” to be some extent. Later, I read this blog entry about Go’s Mart and I became intrigued – the hunt was on. He compared it to Urasawa and he’d eaten at some impressive restaurants. Yelp provided a touch more detail. And then I learned that “pretty good” places was, indeed, Go’s Mart – triangulation and confirmation.

  
  Grilled Toro

  The outside was as non-descript as the anonymous surroundings. A back-lit sign simply read “Sushi”; in fact, as we passed by the first time, my friend joked “we could eat there.” After our U-turn, we realized that, yes, we were eating there. Walking in, a few Japanese VHS videos are available for rent; a few drinks available in a cooler; and a brightly lit six person sushi bar sits in the back, behind a fish cooler. The decor, so to speak, is non-existent. The menu is written on the wall. Nothing more. Was this a well kept secret? Or a bad lead? Whichever the case, our fates were already cast and we ordered “omakase please.”

  
  Grilled Cod Sperm Sac (Shirako) with white truffle

  The entire meal came to 11 courses, many of which were unusual for an American sushi restaurant. We started with a series of richer dishes – ankimo, seared toro, and cod sperm sac with white truffle. The next set of dishes got lighter and brighter – flounder sashimi, oysters with caviar, and a white fish sampler – where he employed different types of toppings on each dish. A few pieces of sushi – tender abalone, clam, and a sampling of shrimp with white truffle – continued to show high quality ingredients. Two grilled shrimp heads concluded the savory portion of the meal.

  
  Flounder sashimi with citrus zest

  The ingredients were of generally higher quality – this was a serious place. Only the grilled toro was disappointing – it seemed a bit anemic, lacking much fat. Otherwise, all of the fish was of exceptional quality – fresh and firm. Go-san also used luxurious ingredients – white truffle, caviar, sperm sac, and freshly grated wasabi. This was more Masa (NYC) than Urasawa (LA) – a French California slant on traditional Japanese.

  
  Kumamoto Oyster with Caviar

  The toppings employed might be decried by some as Americanized or French,not always traditional. However, they almost always worked to great effect. The toppings always enhanced and rarely, if ever, took away from the main ingredient. My only complaint was the cloying plum sauce served with the ankimo – it was too sweet and its proportions too large. The white truffles lent an earthiness to the creamy sperm sac; the citrus zests and salts brightened the flounder sashimi sampler considerably; and the white truffle oil, normally a scourge, but used sparingly here, added an extra dimension to the white fish sampler.

  
  White Fish sampler – Halibut, Kue, Snapper, & Butterfish – with shiso and white truffle oil

  If one could point to a flaw in the meal, the sushi rice could be singled out. It was somewhat warm but it did not have the refinement of Sushi Yasuda (NYC) or Urasawa (LA.)

  
  Clam and Abalone sushi

  Overall, I enjoyed the spoils of the hunt. I was concerned when we sat down but the ingredient quality and conception was of very high quality. There is no question this is one of the better Japanese restaurants in the country. And where does it rate in the sushi/sashimi pantheon? I would rank it solidly in the second tier, alongside Sushi Yasuda (NYC) and Sushi Kaji (Toronto.) The first tier, which would include Urasawa (LA), Kuruma Zushi (NYC), Masa (NYC), and Sawa (Sunnyvale), have higher quality fish, rice, and/or refinement. Priced at $150-200/head, Go Mart is competitively priced for this quality of meal.

  
  Grilled Shrimp Heads

  Do you have a favorite sushi spot that is relatively unknown? That might truly rank in the first or second tier of North America’s best? Share it in the Comments..

  - chuck

  ]]> http://www.chuckeats.com/2007/12/04/gos-mart-canoga-park-secret-suburbia-sushi/feed/ 7