Aqua (SF) – I had intended for this to be a proper review but it really doesn’t warrant it. 2 Michelin stars? Expensive food for the business crowd that’s ok if someone else is paying. The quality of fish, for a seafood-focused restaurant, is average. A hamachi sashimi was completely overwhelmed by grapefruit slices. Abalone served with pork belly was muddled.

Boulevard (SF) – A good meal in a convivial atmosphere that can be enjoyed with friends – but nowhere near great. It is over-priced for the quality of the food and over-rated within this city. We sat in the wine cave and it provided a nice bit of anonyminity and seclusion. For a mostly ingredient-first cuisine, I found the ingredients fairly average.

Canteen (SF) – Another restaurant I don’t understand. My first meal was good but a second visit left me wondering why people are going crazy over good, but very average, food. You can get the same meal at countless other places within San Francisco – why hassle with reservations in this tiny restaurant?

The Village Pub (Woodside, CA) – The VC haunt, at VC prices. They try to be a touch fancier than your typical ingredients-first Bay Area restaurant but you have to pay for that privilege. They make a big deal about their relationship with SMIP Ranch, but the food options lacked many vegetable choices. For the same price, we could have eaten at Manresa.

Spruce (SF) – The sister restaurant to Village Pub – slightly better but very over-priced. The food was better here, low one Michelin star territory, but it lacks much punch. You could be eating at any number of places in the country. But you will immediately remember where you are when you get that bill.

Pizzeria Picco (Larkspur, CA) – A nice lunch stop on the way to Napa or Sonoma. It gets a touch hot outside in the sun but the pizzas are pretty good. The crusts were a little soggy but I’d give the pizzas a B+. The much-vaunted Straus soft-serve ice cream was slightly disappointing, with the El Rey chocolate edging the olive oil with sea salt.

Seaweed Cafe (Bodega Bay, CA) – Pretty average seafood for a restaurant claiming to be seafood-focused. A salmon tartar was overpowered by ginger and spice; grilled sardines were very good; and black cod, that silky lovely fish, was overcooked. For the money, they are many better options throughout the Bay Area. If you find yourself in Bodega Bay, with nothing to eat, it’s probably your best option.

Wild Flour Bakery (Freestone, CA) – A welcome spot tucked deep in the Sonoma back trails. Their sticky buns are humongous, gooey, and not too sweet – perfect. A fun little place that is perfect to stop in for a snack.

- chuck

Pizzeria Mozza (LA) – I was in LA for less than 24 hours but I managed to convince my pho-loving-ten-dollars-is-enough-for-food friends that, yes, this upscale pizza place might be worth it. It probably didn’t hurt that Mario Batali’s name was attached to it. And what pizzas they were! The crust was crunchy and doughy, full of flavor. However, it was the red sauce in the prosciutto pizza that told me I needed to return – amazing stuff – used all too sparingly.

Tailor (NYC) – The opening reviews slammed the place but I found them hard to believe. Sam Mason could do no wrong at WD-50; his desserts were often the best part of an already enjoyable meal. I ordered both the savory and sweet menus – 8-9 dishes in total – and everything was pretty good (for those that don’t me personally – that’s like saying “Mikey likes it!”) In particular, the inventive ice creams are highly recommended.

Range (SF) – When I read the opening reviews of Range, I thought here-we-go-again, another ingredients-first-San-Francisco restaurant from the Chez Panisse school of cooking. There’s nothing wrong with that, except that we have a few thousand of them. Then Michelin gave them one star and I thought over-rated. But my friend kept telling me it was worth it. And it was – it’s ingredient-first but the cooking was precise and the ingredients were better than I can procure at the farmer’s market. A great casual place to eat in San Francisco, in the same league as Blue Plate and Delfina.

Burger Joint (NYC) – I heard about this tucked-away spot and Luxeat’s review reminded me just in time for my last NYC trip. The line was long and hectic, but 20 minutes later, I ate a great hamburger. For the Californians, yes, this was better than In’n'Out – no question. Skip their fries.

Ino Sushi (SF) – Ino is a small sushi counter tucked inside the Japantown Plaza that is known but not terribly popular. Aside from Sebo, it probably serves the best sushi in San Francisco proper. I’d rate it a 7/10 on my sushi scale – not a destination but worthwhile if find yourself craving sushi in the city. My only real issue is that he doesn’t serve real wasabi.

El Paseo (Mill Valley, Bay Area) – When Michelin ran through our town last year, I read one interesting post that insisted El Paseo should have earned one star. Curiously, I’d never heard of the place and I grew a small fascination with it. The highlights were a high-quality piece of lamb (hard to find here in the States) and an impressive wine list (think French, not California wines.) Overall, the meal felt disjointed and inconsistent.

Spotted Pig (NYC) – I didn’t really do my research but the name led me to believe I’d be eating a lot of ham. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case; instead, I found myself in a quirky pub whose menu was transplanted from San Francisco. My burger with roquefort cheese was good, but I’d rather eat the Burger Joint (see above) one for 1/2 the price.

Sakae (Burlingame, Bay Area) – Sakae is often listed as the Bay Area’s best sushi restaurant. I tried a few lunches and dinner here but I fail to see the fascination. The fish is ok but it’s nowhere near the levels of the best in America. The rice temperature is a little cold and it doesn’t approach the levels of Masa or Sushi Yasuda. Some people have told me you need to become a regular to get the best; I don’t see enough potential to warrant the cost. Sebo and Ino are better in my book, unless you’re stuck on the peninsula.

Perbacco (SF) – Yet another Italian restaurant in our fair city. I only remember overcooked pasta and meat. Given the other options (Quince, Delfina, Rivoli), don’t bother – not even close to being in the same league.

Mijita Cocina Mexicana (SF) – The taco joint in the Ferry Building by Traci Des Jardines. Over-priced tacos without any of the soul, for the business-suit crowd. The only redeeming quality? They serve Mexican Coke – real cane sugar instead of HFCS. I could take a $4 train ride to and from the Mission and still come out ahead. If you need lunch in the Ferry Building, get a sandwich at Lulu’s Petite or oysters at Hog Island.

Until the next great meal…

- chuck

Richart’s story can be found in other places but the short version is that Michel took the business over (from his father) and updated it using contemporary art as one of his primary influences. Indeed, design is the immediate distinguishing feature – bold bright colors that look too intricate and impossible to place on chocolates. The chocolates below, while striking in their simplicity, don’t show the detail and color of other designs. Designs are “printed” using cocoa butter.

Permanent flavor families are offered as well as special editions throughout the year. The permanent families include Balsamic, Roasted, Fruity, Citrus, Herbal, Floral, & Spiced. Special offerings include themes based on seasons, children’s themes, and even a yearly contest that features a lucky kid’s design.

The chocolate used is 70% minimum of the Criollo bean from Venezuala. From there, they claim to grind it finer than other chocolate makers – from 20 to 12 microns – to ensure an “ultra-smooth palate experience.” The chocolates come with a variety of fillings – ganache, praline, and coulis. The ganache is made with cream from Normandy or Bresse and the coulis contains actual fruit pulp.

The flavors are as vibrant as the design – crisp, bold, bright, and clean. Some flavors, particularly the orange, taste like an entire piece of fruit has been concentrated into the small chocolate somehow. It’s amazing how such small squares have such impact.

From Left to Right, Back to Front:

Grapefruit Praline – bitter grapefruit upfront yields to a sweet hazelnut finish.

Mandarin / Green Orange Ganache – very orange, nearly concentrated in impact, vibrant.

Kumquat Coulis – crisp kumquat flavor with some bitterness from its pulp in the coulis, fairly long finish.

Bergamot Ganache – the chocolate remains strong with bergamot inflections, the ganache quite creamy and very smooth.

Citrus Essence Coulis – orange, lemon, and bergamot flavors dance around, none dominating, but maintaining the citrus essence throughout.

Orange Zest Coulis – intense orange flavor with a fair amount of bitterness that slowly decays and cedes to the underlying chocolate notes.

Lemon Ganache – intensely strong lemon flavor, almost a concentrated lemon confit taste, big and very bright.

The coulis citrus chocolates are the best – the fruit flavors are boldest and cleanest, presumably from the inclusion of actual pulp. All are intense and pack more flavor than most chocolates from any other producer. The chocolate shells are not always the freshest, unlike Paul Young (London) or Kee’s Chocolate (NYC), but the explosive flavors make up for deficiencies in the shell. If you could get them fresh from Lyon (Richart’s home base), they could oust Paul Young from my top ranking.

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.richart.com/

Technically, TDG is not growing the vegetables themselves; they have partnered with Benziger Family Winery and “promise that 90 percent of the restaurant’s produce will come from Benziger’s biodynamic gardens.” Biodynamic farming is likened in many circles to voodoo and witchcraft but, despite the practices and philosophies behind it, a biodynamic farmer is likely to care for their land more so than the average farmer – respecting the inputs and outputs.

My main exposure to biodynamic vegetables, aside from that miracle bottle of 90 La Tache at Montrachet, is my (seemingly) monthly tasting menu at Manresa. While people will argue whether vegetables have terroir or not, there’s no denying the stunning achievements of those vegetables from the Love Apple Farm. Is it the land, the farmer, or the perfectionist chef? More likely, it’s a synthesis of the three but these are questions that will be asked as more restaurants try the model.

I’m unsure if TDG is where they want to be yet – I suspect they are early in the path they’ve chosen. Regardless, like any self-respecting Bay Area restaurant, they take their produce sourcing seriously. Here’s a video with their main forager.

Outside of philosophy, how was the meal and why was I there?

The Fork and Bottle duo, loyal readers, and I set a date at TDG. The bio-dynamic garden plans had certainly piqued my interest and earned TDG a spot on my Restaurants to Try list. Erroneously, I thought they had a great Burgundy selection but I had confused it with a different restaurant (whose name I have lost.) Regardless, it was a good excuse to take a drive up to Sonoma and the surrounding areas and enjoy the summer sun. Fork and Bottle had also reviewed the restaurant last year and they wanted to get an update.

Ragout of Summer Mushrooms w/ Smoked Duck Breast & Cheddar Grits

The “bacon” and grits show the chef’s southern influence – this dish was a good example of slightly refined comfort food. However, it was flawed by its execution (or conception.) The duck breast, tasting very much like bacon, dominated the flavor and drowned out most of the mushroom’s earthiness.

California Halibut w/ Tomato Gumbo, Corn Custard, & Herb Butter

This was a fine piece of fish, complete with crispy skin, but it was neither perfect nor unique. The outsides were a touch dry. The corn custard had a sweetness that helped give the dish a backbone of flavor. Nonetheless, you could find this dish anywhere – the “gumbo” and corn custard didn’t really distinguish it from the multitudes of halibut dishes being served in the Bay Area that night.

Herb Roasted Lamb Chops w/ Potato Puree, Local Greens, & Rosemary Jus

The meat was cooked medium rare but the quality of the meat was poor. It was grainy and slightly tough; possibly the result of not being aged long enough (as I learned at Eigensinn Farm last year.)

Trio of Sorbet

In the world of Coasian economics, a firm should only outsource production when a third party provides better value (be it economic or quality.) This is why we have an economy of small businesses instead of 300M+ single business owners.  Should every restaurant attempt to vertically integrate their supply chains and develop an entire menu in-house? Should chefs add farmer to their multiple roles of manager and cook? Or is this domain that should be left to fanatical crazed perfectionists who will stop at nothing to develop the best? The intentions are laudable and, if nothing else, it might help chefs re-connect with their food as Daniel Patterson wrote in this blog post. Time will tell how this newest trend in fine dining (if it is) will pan out.

Philosophy aside, how does The General’s Daughter rate among other restaurants of its caliber? Within the Sonoma/Napa area, it plays second choice to Farmhouse Inn’s better ingredients and execution; and Pilar’s Mexican take on similar dishes. Nationally, I see similiarities with both Highlands in Birmingham and Blackberry Farm in Tennessee. Chef Dishman, who cooked in Florida before, was no doubt influenced greatly by both restaurants as they are iconic in Southeastern fine dining lore. Again, TDG plays second choice to slightly more refined and better executed takes on Southern cuisine.

The General’s Daughter may become a great restaurant in the wine country but it needs a few more years to develop and mature. Meanwhile, their goals of vertical integration and self-sustainability are laudable and I will be happy to return to see their progress.

- chuck

Ad Hoc

The Thomas Keller solution for… something? Thomas Keller is a great chef but he’s a better marketer – the Alain Ducasse of America. It’s a tried-and-true formula – Michelin star chef + downscale restaurant = a license to print money. People that might eschew the haute temples will flock to the cheaper restaurants and eat the cuisine at affordable prices; never mind that it’s always watered down and/or bares little resemblance to the flagships. Get the right PR people involved and the media will fawn over the concept – the tail wagging the dog.

What did I expect? Much like Fork & Bottle, I expected “middle-of-the-road style dinner with almost perfect attention-to-detail.” I knew this was comfort food but I still expected the signature meticulous Keller attention to detail. If Ad Hoc could deliver on this expectation, it would be the best comfort food in the Bay area. Blue Plate reigns supreme in this niche but a Keller take on this concept is his for the taking.

I heard that Monday night was supposed to be fried chicken night. Refined Palate, a friend who has several lifetimes of dining experience, called it the best fried chicken ever. (She’s also somewhat Keller-biased – she’s eaten at The French Laundry more than 100 times. If you don’t think The French Laundry can get creative – read this post.) Nonetheless, there’s no doubt Keller has the potential to make the best fried chicken ever if the restaurant took its time to do it right. Unfortunately, we were misinformed – this particular Monday was beef brisket night.

1. Romaine Hearts with purple onions – The onions were incredibly sweet and tasty but the romaine hearts were nothing better than what’s available at the farmer’s market. Arguably, the portion size was silly; the whole dish became a bit redundant. It immediately became clear the philosophy here would not follow the “less is more” Keller model.

2. Beef Brisket w/ Baked Beans, Corn & Fava Bean Succotash – And then we jumped right into the main course. Although a touch dry, the beef did pack a nice smoky flavor. The beans and succotash also packed more flavor than your typical picnic-variety. The food tasted good but its presentation was sloppy – everything was thrown into a large cast iron pan. It was not haute cuisine but it cheapened the experience.

3. Blue Cheese – One gigantic slab of very cold blue cheese with honey. This was barely appetizing; surely, better efforts could be taken to serve the cheese at something closer to the correct temperature. And, again, portion size was silly; it’s as if they want to distract you from the quality with the quantity. And why not serve a small cheese plate with a variety of cheeses?

4. Banana Upside Down Cake – A dry piece of cake.

We came for the fried chicken but were defeated yet again by the price of this simple meal – $120 with no alcohol. The meal was simply over-priced. To better justify the price, and provide for a better experience, I think they should add an appetizer and a proper cheese plate. If costs were a concern, decrease the portion sizes of the salad and entree dishes. It would still be over-priced but Keller has to pay those interest payments somehow. If you’re in the area, there are better picks.

Here are some other reviews, many positive:

• Fork & Bottle
• BiteClub
• Cooking for Engineers
• Bunrab
• Unique Culinary Adventures

ChuckEats has had some unfortunate culinary luck lately but there should be a reprieve in the near future. Quince and The French Laundry (a proper Keller meal) are scheduled soon; a lunch at Pilar is in the calendar; I will make it to Plumpjack Cafe (whose chef has cooked at Manresa, Can Roca, El Bulli, Fat Duck, and others); and that trip down to LA will materialize (for repeat meals at Bin 8945 and Providence.)

Stay tuned.

- chuck

They were only labeled as “Sea Scallops”, not “Diver Scallops”; I presume they were fished by dragging nets on the sea floor instead of by underwater divers. A side effect of this fishing method is age – they might be less fresh than a diver scallop. However, I’ve also read that scallops need to age a touch (to develop flavor) so this may not be the worst thing.

Stick the knife in, work your way around the side muscles, and the shell opens right up. It’s vile inside – muscle, mucuous membrane, & meat – all in one. An intersting question – Does anyone know of any interesting recipes for the non-meat parts?

Pull away the muscle and membrane, some say don’t wash (I did to remove the grit), and salt on the ends. The salt will dry out the moisture and, theoretically, create a better sear. I also slow-cooked a small basket of morel mushrooms (they are coming into season here.)

The end result

Sweet, not as seared as I’d like, but tasty nonetheless. The morel and scallop pairing (mimicking something I had at Quince the other night, proper review some day) works quite well – earth and sea.

- chuck

Myth is the sort of restaurant I really dislike. It’s not cheap but the food is haphazard and careless. I would rather not eat at a Myth for 3 weeks in a row and put it into a Manresa dinner – the economics come out the same but your stomach will be a lot happier.

Ate here right after the New Year with the All In crew. We ordered a variety of dishes, shared a few bites here & there, no notes or camera:

1. Wild Burgundy Escargots with Baby Octopus, Garlic, Pernod and Fennel Salad
They forgot to mention the “butter lake” it was sitting in. Escargot were good, nothing revelatory, pretty decent texture, but the dish was sloppy. Ok.

2. Garganelli Pasta with Foie Gras Cream, Maitake Mushrooms and Marsala
The pasta was overcooked and the cream was very marsala-focused w/ just the slightest foie flavor on the finish. It definitely sounded better on paper – they should add some more foie to the sauce. Ok.

3. Risotto with Patty Pans, Butternut Squash Puree, Parmesan and White Truffle Oil
I only had a bite but this was my favorite of the night. Risotto was cooked well and the squash flavors were sweet and bright w/ a nice crisp parmesan ting. Good.

4. Seared Scallops with Abalone Mushrooms and Potato Puree
I only had one but they were fairly pedestrian – on the cooked side in the middle (probably preferred by most eaters), slightly sweet, but nothing revelatory. Ok.

5. Half Pound Kobe Beef Grilled Hamburger on Housemade Focaccia with French Fries
Nothing on the entree menu really stood out and I knew how this would turn out. I asked that it be as rare/med-rare as possible w/o being mushy (a kobe beef burger problem.) When i got it, it was just too mushy to be enjoyable. It also had a surprising lack of flavor. Of course, the juices quickly soaked the bottom bun. The fries were quite good. Not Good.

The sommelier was one of those stereotypes that turn people off of wine – don’t ask him for Burgundy suggestions because he will lead you astray and act surprisingly condescendatory when questioned about his selection.

In summary - who cares.

Is this review noise? As a reader, do you care about sub-par efforts? Or would you rather just read about restaurants/food-products that are potentially world class?

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.mythsf.com/

There was a small crisis in the SF food community earlier this year – Hoffman opted to stop selling their chickens at the Saturday Farmer’s Market. If I were prone to waking up before 11am, I would have been sounding the alarms too. Unfortunately, Hoffman was always sold out of chickens before I arrived and the Hoffman lady wasn’t too keen (nor consistent) with saving a chicken for this late sleeper.

And they were pretty good chickens. Their best feature was the ease with which they cooked – plop them into the oven for any reasonable time and you were guaranteed a juicy roast chicken. So consistent these chickens were, I failed to see why any native would spend $40 on a Zuni chicken – you could do it yourself for $8. The taste was better than your average supermarket variety but they did fail to come close to a Bresse chicken from France.

No doubt sensing a market opportunity, Prather Ranch began carrying Heritage Chickens. The chickens are Dark Cornish Chickens, shipped frozen from Kansas. They are a tad pricey at $5.99/lb but they are also quite small – these are not mass-produced chickens from calculated breeding techniques that consider yield the most important attribute of a breed. They are humanely raised and organic – a happy chicken is a tastier chicken; a happy chicken eating good food should be tastier yet.

Ethics aside, how do the birds taste?

Remarkable, for an American chicken.

The first thing one notices is the texture – it’s not unlike a Bresse chicken – the meat is firm and toothesome. The chicken does not flake apart with a fork – it takes a bit of effort to cut it. And then you notice the taste – it actually tastes like something – “chicken” for lack of a better adjective. It’s a slightly gamier taste but, really, it’s just a more concentrated chicken flavor. The skin crisps rather nicely when roasted.

No contest – I actually get a bit upset when I miss a shipment of these birds. Far better than the Hoffman birds ever were.

I use a pretty basic recipe:

• Massively salt the exterior the night before
• Pour olive oil between the breast meat and its skin; stick rosemary in there if I have any
• Stick an orange in its cavity (I’ve found this tastes better than a lemon)
• Salt, pepper, and olive oil the outside again
• Cook @ 425 for 45 minutes

Go buy one now.  For more information, you can read the following articles:

• Meet the Farmer – Frank Reese
• KSU profile on Frank Reese

- chuck

Sebo has made a splash and it’s come recommended by a few different people. Two young guys get the fresh-fish-from-Japan hook-up, design a hip sliver of a room to house the patrons, and launch a pretty good word of mouth campaign. Sounds like the makings of an uber-successful San Francisco restaurant for the yuppies.

The Fish

They are very proud of their fish and the omakase chef was very knowledgeable about fish migration patterns and seasons. They claim to get 3-4 shipments/week – most from Japan. And it shows – all of the fish was of better quality. The only problem was that some of the fish, while buttery, lacked any intense flavor.

The Rice

The rice was slightly warm but lacked much vinegar or sweetness. Picking a piece of nigiri up w/ my fingers (the proper way to eat it!) often left a few sticky grains on them; dipping the sushi into soy sauce tended to leave a few grains behind there too. This isn’t world-class nigiri but it’s serviceable. They do use real wasabi – yum.

The Cooked Dishes

Hmmmm, I wouldn’t know – they didn’t cook anything.

Their Experience

I asked them if they’ve been to Urasawa (and Kuruma) and they gave me blank stares. Interesting tidbit – you’d think they would have at least heard of these top-tier places (and very much want to try them.) I told them to go but they probably forgot immediately.

1. Sashimi – Wild Hamachi, Tai, Shimaji, & Saba

The hamachi, shimaji, & saba were fresh but lacked any intense flavor (unlike the wild hamachi I had at Sawa a week ago.) Tai was served ungarnished – lemon and/or sea salt would have been welcome. Good.

2. Sushi – Bluefin, Wild Hamachi, Hokkaido Scallop, Cuttlefish, & Kohada

The fish worked better on the rice; the scallop was exceptionally tender and sweet. Good to Very Good.

3. Salad of Cucumbers, Seaweed, & Seared Saba

A nice mix of greens and fish all tossed w/ a vinegar. This wasn’t refined or exacting but satisfyingly good. The saba, when seared, really came to life. Good.

4. More Sushi – Ankimo, Tako, Uni, & Seared Saba

The ankimo was quite creamy but the sliver was so small it couldn’t hope to coat your mouth. The uni went down very smooth – too smooth – it lacked the ocean’s sweetness. Good.

5. Tuna Poke w/ Salmon Roe & Ankimo

Not sure why it’s falling apart but this shows how the refinement isn’t even close to approaching an Urasawa level (and one reason why Sebo must be considered a great neighborhood restaurant, not a destination restaurant.) No idea how the roe were treated but they tasted unusually light and refreshing. Good.

6. Toro Roll

It is what it is – filler.

7. Final Sushi – Toro & Seared Saba (my request)

The toro was exceedingly buttery but, again, lacked any intense taste. I did like that seared saba.

The Final Verdict

My review might read a little harsh but these guys are trying and I bet they could do better. I’m happy to say I finally have a go-to place for sushi in the city – this is what every neighborhood spot should aspire to be. Most of the restaurant was filled w/ regulars and it’s easy to see why – not a bad meal for $100. I’m sure the meals will get better as I’m known.

This isn’t destination dining – you can get better fish elsewhere prepared at a more refined level. However, it’s a great place for locals or for those on a budget. I’ll be back – that’s the closest to a compliment I could give to a sushi bar.
- chuck

This wasn’t as fatty as the beef I’ve had @ Urasawa (LA) or Sugiyama (NY) but, ironically, I may have liked it more. Yes, there wasn’t that overwhelmingly fatty taste nor melting in the mouth; instead, it had some bite with a nice beefy taste (granted, it had nothing on the 40-day dry-aged wagyu @ Morimoto.) And this was only aged for 18 days – I can only imagine if I could age this for a few more days and get an even more intense beef taste. (If you’re interested in experimenting to create a more flavorful and tender beef product, you can learn how to dry-age beef in this article.)

I had a pound, I cooked half for dinner (need something for lunch tomorrow.) A thoroughly enjoyable time (and dinner!)

The Meat

The Cross-section - it has some marbeling but it’s certainly not that fatty.

10 seconds/side on a hot pan w/ sea salt & pepper – seared outside, just a touch warm on the inside, near perfection.

Boiled for 20 seconds & finished w/ sea salt & pepper – this preparation allowed the taste of the beef to shine through (as opposed to the crust from searing.)

A thicker piece, 20 seconds/side – should have cooked it longer, still cold in the middle

Golden Gate seems to be carrying the meat on a fairly regular basis. My next experiment is to ask them to age it for 10-20 more days (for as long as they’re willing to) to see how much it impacts the taste.

- chuck