A motley crew rambled into town, nearly driving by the restaurant in search of a bucolic pasture, despite big bold letters reading Town House on the back of a wall – “that’s not it – it’s in a field.” Collectively, to a person, we were already looking past Main Street USA for green rolling hills in the mountain mist ahead – “keep going!” It was thought to be a place where the Shieldses (John & Karen) could just step outside and pluck wild herbs for the next course. The mythology of its remoteness had clearly fogged our senses¹ until The Ulterior Epicure, on a rare pause from the gas², pulled in for a closer look. Spotting liquid nitrogen tanks, he asked “Who else in Chilhowie would use those?”

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Elements is very much a restaurant in the Michel Bras vein, arguably more exciting than anything in New York City (well, I do love that Keste pizza.) While it may not have all of the three-star refined touches of Jean Georges or Per Se, it does have an identity and focus that neither of those restaurants, or others, can lay claim to. There are rough edges here and there that serve more as character than flaws. If the restaurant continues to develop under Chef Scott Anderson, and this report one year later suggests it has, it will grow into a solid two-star quality restaurant shortly.

series of amuse – local zucchini soup, french breakfast radish, yellow squash crostini
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The South flies under the haute culinary radar but the rewards are proving to be worth the adventure. Restaurants like McCrady’s and Radius 10 (Nashville) are quietly developing a modern regional identity – borrowing from Alinea and WD-50′s it-could-be-anywhere cuisine – but retaining a southern flare and finish. And what better place than in the south where the hospitality runs circles around even the most expensive European restaurants?

To get it out of the way, McCrady’s blew my socks off. My expectations were high – Opinionated About raved about the restaurant last October, various online fora reports were exceedingly positive, and I knew Chef Brock moved in circles whose food I respected. In terms of “wanting to return”, only Manresa and Urasawa would rank higher than McCrady’s right now (in the US, that is.) Yes, it was that good ¹.

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Radius 10 represents its city well – a cuisine with a clear southern lineage but one that is augmented with modern (and international) technique. The practicalities of running a restaurant in Nashville have probably prevented Jason Brumm’s cuisine from realizing his ultimate vision, but it is certainly a worthwhile visit in its current manifestation. Radius does not eschew comfort and deliciousness as some of its contemporaries might; rather, it uses that as a base for its modern technique. The end result is a unique voice in today’s food scene.

The View from the Chef’s Bar

Radius 10 is a lot of fun too. There is a chef’s bar where one can watch (some of) the action and talk to the chefs. I became somewhat of a minor celebrity that night through my road trip tales (or is that trials & tribulations?)

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(some day i’ll get this camera figured out)

Frank Stitt is a nationally recognized chef who is trying to bring back southern aspects to continental cuisine. A Chez Panisee alum, he has an influential cookbook, Southern Table, and stresses fresh ingredients and “deliciousness” in his cuisine.

Thanks to a friend who made the reservation for me, I was treated like a king here – the true definition of southern hospitality top to bottom – and definitely one of the better single diner experiences I’ve had.

The food was pretty tasty. This isn’t cerebral food; it may not wow you; but it is a very good meal when your travels take you through Birmingham. They offered me a tasting menu, but everything was at least appetizer-portioned – bring your appetite.

1. Lump Crabmeat in Avocado w/ Sherry Dressing

Simple, refreshing, lightly dressed (a rarity anywhere), and the crab had a very sweet ocean taste – some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. Very Good.

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