It was a fitting introduction to an evening where modern and natural themes bounced off each other. Mugaritz³ and Alinea clearly resonate within the walls of this charming restaurant tucked into the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. But is it as an unlikely place as many others have written?⁴ Does its molecular bent and high aspirations render it misplaced? The food, with its careful juxtapositions and suggestive forms, casts a new light on the land – a swath of the Virginia countryside picked, plated, and processed, always with a tweezer’s precision. Vegetables and herbs play large roles throughout and some plates could be mistaken for the landscape itself. The compositions might look challenging at first but it was effortless eating – the technique buried into the flavor.

The Shieldses turned down the financial returns of Vegas for personal rewards – an opportunity to cultivate a style of their own. Scrolling through the earliest pages of the Town House blog⁵, one finds a more-is-more approach – possibly the n+1 world of Achatz’s Alinea.⁶ The dishes appear to be busier and less focused, the burgeoning of their Virginia cuisine. In the meal below, the environment appears to creep in more carefully, minimalism has value, and nature’s wild flavors are as often responsible for the “oh wow” moments. It is exciting to consider the progress over the past three years and what the future holds – a case for the artist in isolation.⁷ Relentlessly refined, appropriately remote, the restaurant belongs in Chilhowie, Virginia.

“I know exactly where you are: You’re in the middle of nowhere, and that’s what we’re looking for.” – John Shields

This meal took place last Spring, the second stage of an impressive three part journey that also included Sean Brock’s Husk and McCrady’s. John Shields knew this wild bunch was on its way – Miss OMG, TomoStyle and The Ulterior Epicure (you can read his review here), with whom the Shieldses shared a meal with at El Bulli in January. We were offered a 20-course menu, on a quiet night, instead of the normal 10; and we paid in full. All of the photos below were taken by The Ulterior Epicure – would you bother taking your own?

Sorrel Leaves & Finger Lime

Malted Bread – Foie gras, anise, fennel

To settle into the meal, Shields served the field that never was in two quick bites. Sorrel leaves, with whimsical dew droplets, had an expected acidic zing but were touched with a faint sweetness. Biting down, the finger lime pulp, citrus caviar, burst with stabs of acid. But was that real dirt? For a table of experienced eaters, there was an unusual degree of trepidation – it really looks like dirt. There were bitter dark chocolate notes but the line was blurry and no was one certain what it was.

Peas, Bechamel of Rancid ham

Chilled Vegetable “Minestrone”

Colorful and diminutive, with a landscape all its own, the fourth course was a homage to the Michel Bras classic – the vegetable salad. It has become the culinary equivalent of the Aristocrats joke⁸, a riff on well-known parameters, but with an endless range of interpretations – an inside joke for chefs and diners alike. Shields’ version consisted of vegetable curls, each stacked vertically in a pickled broth, and playfully called “Minestrone”. Others have commented that each vegetable is cooked in its own liquid to preserve the crispness of flavor, inline with the Bras technique.

Somehow, it did not wow me. It was an enjoyable dish but, given my current sensibilities, I thought it would do more. There was a distance between vegetable and broth, a distinction that I could not reconcile. In a similar dish at the original Geranium (Denmark), The King’s Herbgarden, there was more soup for more equal ratios. That dish also had more variety; perhaps this minestrone was more nuanced and I was not prepared. It is a dish I would like to repeat, for it is universally praised on every other review.

Oyster… Natural

Preserved Cucumber – Rose, spring onion, clove, oyster

Warm Soup of Oysters – Grapefruit, mussel bouillon, radish, buttermilk, fish roe butter

There is no ocean nearby but Shields is very capable with seafood, successfully extracting intense briny essences. The first of an oyster triptych, “Oyster… Natural”, simply and refreshingly linked the oyster to the plant of its namesake. “Warm Soup of Oysters” was powerful but rounded with dimension, presumably the grapefruit and buttermilk adding subtle touches of sweet and sour. Each course amped up the flavor and richness, culminating in a refined lobster preparation – lobster coral cream, lobster meat, and lobster aspic consomme. It was bold but blissful, a slow tempo dish – a consensual pause in the menu where the bites are savored longer. Each layer was successively more clean, and while they mixed in the mouth, they still maintained some independence. The aspic hit first with its lobster essence and the cream would coat the mouth as you chewed on the sweet tender lobster. French in its luxuriousness but excessively modern in its clean approach.

Maine Lobster – Cream of the shells & consomme

Soft Shell Crab – Onions, seaweed, sunchoke, stewed rhubarb

Heirloom Potato & Turbot – Enriched with egg, shad roe, lovage, broken mayonnaise

Skin from the Turbot & Bonito Vinegar

Like many modern meals, the menu plays on expectation. Our first encounter was obviously the dirt but surprise was used to extraordinary effect with a duo of cephalopod dishes. A “Squid Risotto” was creamy and toothsome, and without rice or dairy. Each grain was diced squid that very effectively approximated the texture of al dente rice. The rice to liquid ratio approached that of a just-soupy made-to-order risotto. For me, it had that bliss of a near-perfect risotto, one where each grain is savored. From toothsome to silky, the cuttlefish in “Sheets of Cuttlefish & Pork Fat” was indistinguishable, both visually and texturally, from lardo. It was impossible to distinguish what was on the fork, or in the mouth, until biting and tasting the different sweetness, and savoriness, from each. Who knew the similarities that could be derived from each of these ingredients? This is not craft – it is art.

Squid Risotto

Sheets of Cuttlefish & Pork Fat

Where many throw in the giant proteins at the end, often contrary to the balance and precision of earlier courses, Shields continued in his style, light and refined. He brought an element of excitement and ingenuity to the meat – clearly re-thinking alternatives to the usual ‘just serve them top grades’ approach.

In a reversal from my last post, where I lauded the virtues of umami carrots, Pastoral was a stunning near-end to the savory dishes. A circle-of-life dish – cow eats hay, cow produces milk, all plated together for one final reunion – a modern interpretation of the what grows together should be eaten together ethos. The hay-smoked milk permeated the beef cheek and its finish lasted long – this was one of my favorite meat dishes of recent memory.

Pork Tail & Dried Shellfish

Beef Cheek – Cow’s milk infused with roasted hay & farro… Pastoral

Border Spings Lamb Belly Glazed in mushroom stock – juices from apple, sassafras, malted yogurt, pine shoots

And, then, day becomes night.

In a typical tasting menu, the momentum of flavors and textures, the story, abruptly shifts from savory to sweet, tradition far more important than the tale at hand. It is often the third change-up in less than five courses – from composed dishes to giant protein to sticky sweet, sometimes with the benefit of an intermezzo type course. Town House eschewed these unwritten rules, taking arc, style, and flavor into consideration, following through on the savory menu instead of tacking sweets on. Savory exists in Karen Shields’ desserts – to amazing effect.

Continuing, not beginning, with a dark and rich Liquid Chocolate Bar, in sequence after the lamb, she immediately switched the progression to something more sensible. Dark to light – Why not serve the richest dessert after the heaviest course? And then work toward a soft landing, or denouement.⁹ The dessert itself was beautiful, suggesting charred land, sweet but playing off the bitterness of the (awesome) ice cream of burnt embers and dark chocolate.

Earlier, the Ulterior Epicure had declared dill his favorite herb of all – and that was met with some quizzical looks – “dill?” After Curd of Sour Quince & Olive Oil, where dill prominently featured, it was unclear if his smile was happiness, or vindication. This was possibly my favorite dessert – ever. The dill danced in a lithe manner across a sweet and sour palette, punctuated by thrusts of pepper. Words are very unnecessary, they can only do harm…

Liquid Chocolate Bar – an ice cream of burnt embers, sour yogurt, milk & sugar

A Curd of Sour Quince Juice & Olive Oil – Black pepper, dill, pine ice cream, toasted meringue

Broken Vanilla Marshmallow – Lemon & cucumber, sorrel, softly whipped cream, green strawberry

Rocks

A culinary tour of the South is as seductive an adventure as one could embark on in the United States,¹⁰ with Town House, Husk, and McCrady’s one possible itinerary. The Shieldses are artists who are re-defining a cuisine of their region. While nothing screams “Southern”, like Husk, the food is very much of the land. Ambitious and creative, it is firmly two-star territory, often shooting into three, with desserts so remarkable they would be worthy of the Michelin Man’s last meal.

Or, as the Ulterior Epicure said in his review, you can’t get there quickly enough.

- chuck

1 – There is an inn – Riverstead – a sister property to the restaurant that sits on a farm. I think we all thought this also served as the restaurant. Caviar and Codfish did not take pictures of their Town House meal but they beautifully photographed their room at the inn.

2 – My foot is just as heavy and I should have been the one pulling into the restaurant. However, Sean Brock, divining the full force of Pappy Van Winkle, condemned the Ulterior Epicure to a full weekend of driving – see Brocked.

3 – Cited by Shields as his favorite meal ever, on his honeymoon to boot! (He could’ve said ChuckEats for #5 but you can’t win them all!)

4 – It’s an interesting questions with many layers to it – economic, social, class, tradition – one that I won’t touch on here. Why shouldn’t it be here? Why is it surprising when a high-end restaurants opens up in the American countryside? And, a follow-up question might be: Why aren’t there more in a culture of the car? Could a Faviken Magasinet exist in America?

5 – Town House Grill bleeped on my radar when they, like Elements before them, began linking to my blog. Their blog had interesting looking food but why was there a “Grill” in their name? It has taken me three years to make it out there – don’t repeat my mistakes.

6 – This is not a value judgement – John Shields worked there before and I quite enjoyed my Alinea meal. However, most Alinea dishes do not appear complete unless one more ingredient is added to the mix. Saveur had a great slideshow of Alinea dish sketches – good stuff.

7 – On my cross-country drive a few years ago, Louisa Chu recommended a place in Colorado called Keyah Grande – “go”, she said. It was five hours from anything. The official web site had burgers and steaks, with some game meats if i recall. But the restaurant was run by a husband / wife team – who also had a little ol’ blog called Ideas in Food. Both meals there were fantastic. And now Alex and Aki get the credit they deserve, thanks to years of innovative work and a recently published excellent book.

8 – I’m not sure who originally came up with this analogy but I think it’s appropriate and apt. If it was you, please let me know so I can give proper credit. Who is the Bob Sagat of Gargouillo?

9 – Aaron London, the current chef at Ubuntu, for which I sadly have no review of yet, uses this approach to ease into the dessert courses. I did share this meal with Doc Sconz last November.

10 – The reviews for Husk and McCrady’s will come one day! Other stops on the adventure could include Scott’s BBQ (who, with Sean Brock, won Best of Show at this weekend’s Meatopia in Brooklyn) an hour outside of Charleston; Bacchanalia in Atlanta; a drive on the infamous Tail of the Dragon, which leads right into Blackberry Farm in Tennessee; or you could approach it from the Washington DC vector.

Some other reviews of Town House:
- The FoodandBeerMonger

- Fat Food Taxi

- Veal Cheeks

- Doc Sconz

- New Mountain Cookery

All photos taken by The Ulterior Epicure & used with permission.

series of amuse – local zucchini soup, french breakfast radish, yellow squash crostini

There are modern touches in the food, with obvious influences from Spain, but they are integrated with the flavors of the season. It is an exploration into what new American dining could be. There is a common DNA of many of the restaurants reviewed (favorably) on this blog – a little Ferran Adrià (re-thinking conventions in technique and ingredient) and a lot of Michel Bras (nature, time, and place), with nods to Alain Passard (vegetables) and Pierre Gagnaire (conventions and stream of consciousness.)¹ Elements falls squarely in this profile – it is modern without flaunting it.

Their fascination, and use, of “new” products, whether it be the Kindai tuna (they were among the first to serve it in the US) or mangalitsa pig (again, among the first) distinguishes the restaurant from its peers too. The industrial production of food has limited our protein choices, whether it be honing on a few basic breeds for profit or depletion of valuable ocean resources. Restaurants should lead the charge on raising awareness around alternative choices (that, most importantly, taste good), for they are at the forefront of influencing consumption, particularly in the new TMZ-like world of celebrity. Fish is a conundrum but there is no reason that heritage breeds of chicken, pork, and other animals can not be saved – and we can save them by eating them.

And then there’s that simple matter of execution. It sounds trivial, and it’s absolutely expected, but few restaurants perform consistently throughout a tasting menu, nailing each dish, particularly when it comes to seafood. In fact, my new motto is “when in doubt, serve it raw” (a great hipster t-shirt idea if there ever was one!) Elements nailed the cooking on each piece of protein.

dungeness crab – avocado, romaine, sauce Louis

This meal took place last Fall – this review just in time for, um, this Fall. It was arranged with Joe Sparatta ², the sous chef, who invited me to eat in the kitchen dining room (a must, imo, if my writing is convincing.) An entire room to myself, a kitchen cooking for me, a bottle of wine (85 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva), and a tasting menu – life is not always cruel.

mangalitsa lardo

I’ve had Mangalitsa several times now but this was my first experience. The obvious comparisons are to wagyu beef or toro – the meat has grease between its cells instead of water. This lardo obviously had a luscious mouthfeel and it was a tremendous introduction to the pig breed. This was left over from a Mangalitsa dinner from a few weeks earlier – sounds awesome but it would be quite a challenge to successfully cut that much fat throughout an entire meal. Given the current “pig anything” craze, I’m surprised Mangalitsa is not the trendiest animal alive – it should be.

onions & apples – roasted, raw, chips, Seranno ham

The onions and apples in this dish were nice companions with their varying degrees of sweetness, acidity, and textures playing off each other. This was a nice start that awakened the palate and taste buds – jumping jacks before the workout routine.

tomato – pinenut, ricotta salata, cherry tomato

haricots verts – plum, bonito creme fraiche

tasting of Kindai kampachi – dorsal loin, ventral loin, belly, collar, head, rib, cheek

The Kindai fish intrigued me and played a role in my reservation, as this was my first (known) exposure to it. I have had various Kindai since this meal and it generally tastes very good for a farmed fish. This was an abbreviated “head to tail” sampling, emphasizing different textures. The sauteed rib was excellent, the crispness providing a perfect foil for the fattiness inside. The belly had a just-right oiliness quality to it. The raw cheek was the most flavorful piece, providing just enough chew with each bite for maximum flavor extraction.

Kindai chu-toro – melon, cape gooseberry, banana pepper

An interesting dish as the fish did not have much flavor, outside of the slight sear, but its texture was quite special. Each bite, providing a satisfyingly optimal resistance, released a grin-inducing splash of oil that coated the entire mouth – stunning – its texture rivaled the best chu-toro tuna I’ve had in Japan.

rouget – fennel, jicama, asian pear, blis sherry

scottish langoustine & frog’s legs – garlic bread soup, cherry tomato, fine herbs

This dish was a testament to the execution of the kitchen – firm, sweet, and just a touch of warmth in the middle. The frying of the frog’s leg was also accomplished. This, like the dish below, had shades of a Pierre Gagnaire mix of land and sea creatures.

black cod – romesco spätzle, chorizo, cipollini, local porcini

The textural interplay, and sea/earth tastes, between the silky black cod, spätzle, and porcini had a Pierre Gagnaire quality to it.

Mangalitsa charcuterie – wiesswurst, tasso, loin, rillette, pate, country terinne, lardo

An impressive display of pig parts – the texture was generally more giving than one would expect (the fat?) and the sweetness of the Mangalitsa was apparent in most. This platter made my night – it was not my favorite dish – but it was the most special.

veal loin – cinnabar red chanterelles, almond, concord grape, cumin

“48 hour” short rib – wild rice, black trumpets, carrot, celery root, ginger

bacon & eggs – bread pudding, smoked maple, bacon custard

For good reason, this seems to a be a signature of the restaurant – very delicious. It could be a reference to The Fat Duck, breakfast for dessert, but it’s not derivative in any way. It serves as a good gateway to dessert – salty, smokey, and sweet – with ample dosages of bacon that recall the earlier Mangalitsa dishes. The obligatory Blis syrup (you don’t stock it in your pantry?!?!?!) was also used, its sweetness and depth remarkable.

terhune peach “tart tatin,” fromage blanc, dry caramel

Lard and bacon flavors are becoming increasingly popular in San Francisco for non-savory items, such as caramels, pecan pie, caramel corn, and more. If Elements continues to feature the Mangalitsa pig throughout its menu, I would recommend that it be incorporated in another intermediary dessert course. There are worse things than to be known as the “Mangalitsa restaurant” but a creative interweaving throughout the meal could add further cohesion and surprise.

The restaurant has not caught on in the blogosphere but there are a few other favorable reviews. Opinionated About was one of the first to write about it – with Wizard of Froz and Wandering Epicures eating there just before me. Taetopia has also written a nice review. And, finally, the New York Times wrote a review two months ago.

Elements is a short train ride away from New York City and the food is worth the detour.³ This meal was served around the one-year anniversary of the restaurant and there is a lot of room to grow. It eschews the typical NYC “fine dining” variations of the endless they-could-be-anywhere international French restaurant. Instead, it aims to craft an identity using its locale. For reference, it reminded me of McCrady’s (Charleston) – similar ideas about food – and that’s something I can support (if I only lived closer – or, perhaps, I could get a PhD!)

- chuck

1 – I just finished meals at l’Arpege and Pierre Gagnaire last week – stay tuned. There is a lot going on in this declaration that I will continue to develop in future blog posts. I think that DNA serves as building blocks for most of the exciting (Western) restaurants in the world. Japan is somewhat inherent in Bras, but now that Japan has “opened” up to some degree (thanks to Michelin and various chef exchange programs), I suspect we’ll see more of a profound influence from that cuisine, much different than current nods to “fusion” found in so many poor restaurants.

2 – It was a textbook case in the value of blogs and “the ongoing conversation.” Elements linked to my blog and I saw a steady stream of visitors – which piqued my curiosity – and then developed into a great interest in the food at Elements. It was quite clear their restaurant fell completely into my target demo – and we finally arranged a date. Engage and participate. The Ideas in Food association did not hurt either – I hold them, and the two meals they served me, in the highest regard.

3 – Riding on a train through Newark at midnight is an experience straight out of The Wire. I heard many tales of drug deals gone bad and crooked cops that night.

To get it out of the way, McCrady’s blew my socks off. My expectations were high – Opinionated About raved about the restaurant last October, various online fora reports were exceedingly positive, and I knew Chef Brock moved in circles whose food I respected. In terms of “wanting to return”, only Manresa and Urasawa would rank higher than McCrady’s right now (in the US, that is.) Yes, it was that good ¹.

The restaurant is a study in layers and contrasts – old and new – yet manages to incorporate it into something unique – “a sense of place” as Chef Brock says he is trying to achieve. The building sets a grand stage – built in the 1700s, it sprawls up, down, in, out, and around what seems like most of a city block – picture the Gangs of New York opening scene. With this setting, he could play alchemist or scientist, and both, as you’ll read, could be appropriate descriptions. The chemicals and laboratory equipment is rumored to be stockpiled in the back (I did not visit the kitchen) but the garden, and soon the animals, share the focus. An older, presumably conservative crowd, chows down on molecular food in a historic American city. The whole scene can be a bit incongruous at first.

I had read of the experimental nature of the food but it was the chef’s commitment to growing his own food, chronicled on his blog since last fall, that had me most intrigued. And here again we have this great juxtaposition – molecular chef and farmer. I don’t have the historical knowledge of Brock’s cuisine but I suspect the ingredients are fascinating him more than the chemicals these days. In fact, besides Kinch (whom Brock holds in very high regards) and Urasawa, I don’t know if there is anyone in the US that is as obsessed about the ingredients in their food. It borders on the fetishistic – which is perfectly fine in my book.

I would have given a full blow by blow of the food but I did my best Anthony Bourdain impression and got sufficiently hammered. Most of the dishes are pictured below and I’ll expound on them and the general themes they played into. I’ve included the full tasting menu after the post ².

Charcuterie

Home-made charctuerie and butter are presented in the beginning. Farm to table – and all points in-between. Travis Grimes, a sous chef, prepares the charcuterie from Caw Caw Creek milk-fed pigs. The plan is to begin raising the pigs on the farm – feeding them vegetable scraps, heavy cream, and peanuts. Might I also suggest acorns? This was a nice beginning with liberal spicing – a theme throughout the meal.

Cherokee Purple, Olive Oil, Housemade Ricotta
The charcuterie was excellent but these tomatoes made me pause – the vegetable garden was certainly no vanity project. The tomatoes were intense, bursting with acidity and sweetness, among the best I’ve ever eaten. They may have been compressed, given the concentration of flavor. Ingredients and technique – coaxing the best attributes out of the flavors.

Zucchini, Meyer Lemon, Yoghurt, Local Shrimp
The lemon tinge, on the edge of being too acidic, balanced the sweetness and creaminess of the other ingredients. You couldn’t call it bombastic but it was clear the chef would not shy away from well-balanced big flavors – the spicing in the charcuterie, the intensity of the tomatoes, and the lemon in this dish.

Poached Scallop, Fresh Coriander Berries, Mango Vinegar
This was just a beautiful dish that hit every button for me. The scallops were cooked sous vide in olive oil and presented in a modern style. Again, some strong flavors that were quite balanced. A Manresa-quality dish – sublime (I haven’t used this word in awhile Denise.)

Tuna, Miso Broth, Ramp Kimchee
At first, it might sound like another Asian fusion cliche but the ramp kimchee gave the dish a powerful, unique jab. The tuna quality was very high.

Coconut, Curry, Arctic Char Roe
I mentioned earlier that the chef ran in interesting circles and I would speculate this dish was born out of collaborative discussions. I first encountered a roe/ice cream dish while eating at Ideas in Food. The textural and taste contrasts are nothing short of genius – the pop of roe mixed with the creaminess of ice cream, followed by the salty and sweet interplay.

Ideas in Food Sourdough Ice Cream w/ Arctic Char Roe from Keyah Grande meal in Jan 2007.

Oyster, Ham Consommé, Cornbread
It would be hard to find a more haute southern dish than this – the mix of the oyster’s brininess and the consomme’s saltiness provided the backbone of the dish. Brock takes his ham seriously (can you say Alan Benton?) and I suspect it finds its way into more dishes than I realized.

Wreckfish, Corn, Beans, Black Truffle
At long last, the Tennessee truffle – almost. My search is not over yet – these were Perigord black truffles via Tennessee via Australia. Tom Michaels, the Tennessee truffle guy, worked with an Australian farmer, where the weather was perfect, for the truffles in this dish. I was very skeptical when I heard of “the Tennessee truffle” but these (Australian) examples were abundantly fragrant. They were 80-85% of the best truffles I had in France two years ago.

Beef Short Rib, Spin Rossa, Pickled Morels, Smoked Hollandaise

Jamison Lamb, Farro, Carrots from our Garden, Merguez
How seriously does Chef Brock take his garden? He’s harvesting his own farro! The lamb was among the better specimens I’ve had in the States – full of flavor.

Trefoil Cheese, Smoked Grapes ,Saba

Lemon, White Chocolate, Local Berries

Were there any regrets? Yes. Admittedly, I did not do my proper research before arriving. If I had, I would have absolutely requested his uni ice cream and foie gras pound cake!

McCrady’s is not a secret, particularly after Chef Brock was nominated for a James Beard award; but it could be called a treasure. As I mentioned earlier, my want to return is quite high. If I were making a top 10 US list, it would easily rank. If someone asked where they could go to experience something special and unique (in the US), it would make the top 5 list. And the restaurant should only get better. Why? The entire restaurant, and seemingly every employee, has bought into Brock’s vision – you can hear their excitement every time they talk to you – you can’t force, or buy, that kind of morale. It is also just Brock’s first year farming the garden; obviously, he should get better with each passing year. The Europeans have discovered Manresa but it won’t be long before Charleston becomes a stop on their culinary itineraries.

“It’s in the middle of nowhere” (in culinary terms of course) is an oft-heard complaint. It’s really not. One could make an excellent food trip with a few hours of driving each day. An example itinerary could be: Bacchanalia in Atlanta (on my to-do list), a 4 hour drive to Radius 10 (Nashville), 3 hours to Blackberry Farm (Walland, TN; I’ve been assured it’s much improved since my visit), 6 hours to McCrady’s, 5 hours to Skylight Inn (Ayden, NC) for the country’s best BBQ (as says my BBQ-loving friend), and 4.5 hours ending at Minibar (DC). Town House Grill (Chilhowie, VA), with Alinea and Tru alumni, could also be an option. And the south can be serious fun. In fact, I may be so inclined to take such a trip later this year, McCrady’s being the centerpiece, of course.

- chuck

1 – Chef Brock and I have exchanged emails and messages through various online circles. I let him know I was coming in for dinner. We even shared a few drinks afterwards. None of this changes my high opinion of the food.

2 – The Full Menu

A Tasting of our Charcuterie
Charentais Melon from the Garden, Benton’s Ham, Balsamic
Cherokee Purple, Olive Oil, Housemade Ricotta
Zucchini, Meyer Lemon, Yoghurt, Local Shrimp
Poached Scallop, Fresh Coriander Berries, Mango Vinegar
Coconut, Curry, Arctic Char Roe
Tuna, Miso Broth, Ramp Kimchee
Beets, Strawberries, Hazelnuts
Oyster, Ham Consommé, Cornbread
Wreckfish, Corn, Beans, Black Truffle
Foie Gras Bacon, Pain Perdue, Blis Maple, Apple Butter
Suckling Pig, Dates, Turnips
Beef Short Rib, Spin Rossa, Pickled Morels, Smoked Hollandaise
Jamison Lamb, Farro, Carrots from our Garden, Merguez
Trefoil Cheese, Smoked Grapes ,Saba
Lemon, White Chocolate, Local Berries
Chocolate, Cocoa Crisps, Mascorpone
Petit Fours

The View from the Chef’s Bar

Radius 10 is a lot of fun too. There is a chef’s bar where one can watch (some of) the action and talk to the chefs. I became somewhat of a minor celebrity that night through my road trip tales (or is that trials & tribulations?)

1. Roasted Pear w/ Foie Gras, Apple Sauce, & Blue Cheese

Not a big bang, a little muddled in flavor, but the apple sauce had enough spice to carry it through. Ok.

2. Citrus Trio (Yuzu Sorbet, Orange/Crab Salad, & Compari Soda)

The sorbet had that intense flavorful kick you want although it may have been too sweet. The orange/crab salad had none of the sweetness as Highlands the night before – it was just there. The soda was a big kick – very acidic, lots of carbonation, bitter, but oddly, delicious. Ok to Very Good.

3. Butter Roasted Pear w/ Blue Cheese “Cake”, Walnut Crisp, & Collard Greens

The cake was the star – creamy like a very light cheesecake, barely sweet w/ great acidity. Very Good.

4. Shrimp & Scallop over Creamy Grits

The grits were the star – creamy w/ great corn taste – rivaled my precious Momofuku favorites. Seafood was good w/ the shrimp being just right. Very Good.

5. Seared Tuna w/ Butternut Squash, Butternut Squash Foam, & Vanilla Bay Vapor

Some parlor tricks w/ the vapor (but it did smell great!) The squash was unncessary but the delicate sweetness of the foam paired nicely w/ the pristine tuna. The seared pepper cut the butter and produced a great union. Very Good.

6. White Truffle White Cheddar Mac’n'Cheese

The ultimate comfort food? Very Good.

7. Seared Duck w/ Chocolate/Balsamic, Duck Confit Bread Pudding, & Leek Confit

The balsamic cut through the fattiness of the duck and the chocolate gave it some nice body. The leek confit was really nice – it had a ‘smoke’ sensation in the mouth where the leek taste lingered for a bit. Very Good.

8. Kobe Short Ribs w/ Carrots & Carrot Puree

This is one of their signature dishes. No pics, no notes, no memory, but i did eat it… or did i?

9. Sweet Potato Pie

Being forced sweet potatoes all my life, i hate them; but this was pretty good. An interesting take on the concept – sweet potato ice cream w/ sweet potato meringue sitting atop some chocolate dirt. Good pure flavors. Very Good.

10. Smoked Ice Cream

No pics, but served in a bowl of smoke. Smoky, intense, very good, but not on the same level as Can Roca’s infamous cigar. Very Good.

Overall, a very interesting meal. It obviously has a foundation in southern cuisine but tries to infuse them w/ very modern techniques. Does it leave the food soul-less? Not at all although it can be incongruous at times. Is this on the same level as WD-50? Probably not but it’s certainly more grounded in ‘real food.’ If you happen to be in or near Nashville, I think it warrants a visit. If you happen to be doing an American tour of “modern” restaurants, it deserves to be placed on your list.

- chuck

Frank Stitt is a nationally recognized chef who is trying to bring back southern aspects to continental cuisine. A Chez Panisee alum, he has an influential cookbook, Southern Table, and stresses fresh ingredients and “deliciousness” in his cuisine.

Thanks to a friend who made the reservation for me, I was treated like a king here – the true definition of southern hospitality top to bottom – and definitely one of the better single diner experiences I’ve had.

The food was pretty tasty. This isn’t cerebral food; it may not wow you; but it is a very good meal when your travels take you through Birmingham. They offered me a tasting menu, but everything was at least appetizer-portioned – bring your appetite.

1. Lump Crabmeat in Avocado w/ Sherry Dressing

Simple, refreshing, lightly dressed (a rarity anywhere), and the crab had a very sweet ocean taste – some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. Very Good.

2. Roast Pigeon w/ Herbs & Sweetbreads on Grits w/ Molasses-Chicken-Stock Glace

Satisfying, it is what it is. The grits were very good – not Momofuku quality – but absolutely delicious. Good.

3. Assorted Greens w/ 3 Vinegear Dressing

Again, lightly dressed, refreshing, fresh – Very Good.

4. Seared Bay Grouper w/ Cauliflower Potatoes & Brown Butter Vinegratte

Great sear on the fish, juicy inside. The mashed potatoes were quite satisfying – a little creamier than most. Very Good.

(not sure where the picture went)

5. Venison Medallions w/ Radish Gratin

Medallions cooked right, peppery, great texture, gamey taste. The gratin was *awesome* – nice crust w/ slices of radish underneath. Very Good.

Just a thoroughly enjoyable meal to start the southern leg of my road trip. The “Very Goods” must be taken in the context of the meal – they are not Manresa Very Good’s – again, simpler dishes done in a very satisfying manner. I wouldn’t travel to eat here; but if you find yourself passing through, it’s a great stop.

I stayed @ the Cobb Lane Bed & Breakfast 3 blocks away – an historic building with a turn-of-the-century-southern-charm – extremely laid back – pretty good deal for $100/night.

Highlands http://www.highlandsbarandgrille.com/

- chuck

What I got was 3*** grounds, a no star hotel room, and 1* food – Keyah Grande this was not. The grounds are manicured, calculated, expansive, and gorgeous. They certainly convey a certain well-off Tennessee lifestyle that (I suspect) few people actually live. The hotel room was tiny and surprisingly noisy; if politicians do indeed stay here, they will want to speak in hushed tones. The food was delicious and safe with its southern influences but strayed a bit when trying to impart a world-class elegance.

The Route

If you decide to go, allot an extra 2.5 hours, and take the scenic route – it is stunning. Take I75 south of 321 to 78, drive east to 360, and then continue east on 43. Once you hit 360, you will see a range of picturesque scenery – cow and horse fields, battered barns, rivers, waterfalls, small hills, and pretty forests. Then you start ascending the mountains where there are multiple vantage points. Some random pics:

The Tail of the Dragon

I made the reservation for Blackberry Farm to indulge my food obsession without realizing I was embarking on a trip to mecca for my car obsession. After 43, you turn north on 129 and enter The Tail of the Dragon – an extremely curvy (318 in fact) 11 mile stretch of road that has been rated #1 by motorcycle and sports car enthusiasts. You can see packs of motorcycles and cars waiting for clear stretches to test their skills. My uncle stayed near the base a few months ago and he says the engine screams can be heard all night long. It’s known as a mecca on many car enthusiast sites.’

The town/county/whomever must have the same savvy publicist as Gary Danko or Cyrus. It’s a curvy mountain road, of which they are many throughout the US. Here in the Bay Area, we have many roads that are nearly its equal – I suspect nearly any city w/ mountains does. It’s not worth a trip by itself; is it with Blackberry Farm looming at the finish line?

You can read about it here http://www.tailofthedragon.com (note: the web site makes it sound far scarier than it is.)

The Grounds

I didn’t take pictures but you can see a better photographer on their web site. There are guest houses that host several guest rooms, common lounges w/ “complimentary beverages”, a bar w/ an extensive collection of local whiskey, rec room, pool, hiking trails, horseback riding trails, etc etc. If this sounds appealing to you, Blackberry will not disappoint.

You can see plenty of pictures on their web site.

The Room

Ok, they have over 4000 acres. They charge $750/night. Why is my room the size of a NY hotel room?

They boast they play host to elite businessmen and politicians from around the world. Why can I hear my neighbors waking up in the morning (and I don’t mean turning on the faucet!)? You can hear people walking down the hallways, walking around in their rooms, and fumbling around in the bathrooms.

This just isn’t right. Rooms in a place of this caliber and price should be larger and sound-proof.

Yep, that’s it.

The view was nice – a manicured attempt to capture the beauty of the Smoky Mountains. It is the view Disney would offer were it located in Tennessee.

The Restaurant

I had no idea the restaurant would be so large. It boasts a very main large dining room and two smaller, darker secondary rooms. My immediate thought was uh-oh – I was expecting some place far more intimate. How could they deliver world-class cuisine to such a large number of people every night? I overheard “how would you like your tuna prepared?”

The Service

The service was awkward. The staff was friendly but they didn’t know how to treat a single diner. The most annoying thing – they would *never* tell me what I was eating – just plop a plate on the table and seemingly run away… fast. They delivered an amuse before I was done reading the wine list. They delivered a dish before I returned from the rest room. They failed the napkin test once. Silly things that just shouldn’t happen.

The Food (Finally)

1. Frog Legs w/ Parsley & Trout Roe

Served cold, the legs were juicy w/ the roe delivering some saltiness. No impact. Good.

2. Turnip Soup w/ Fried Turnip Greens

I have a soft spot for cream-based soups that are delicate and light. The greens managed to float and preserve their crunchiness. Very Good.

3. Zucchini Fritter

The breading was a bit too heavy and the inside was a bit too mushy for my tastes. A lighter frying technique (that might bely its southern influence?) would have lifted it up a notch. Good.

4. Lobster w/ Whey Sorbet, Pickled Tomatoes, & Pickled Tomato Puree

Lobster itself was sweet and cooked right but the pickled tastes overpowered the delicate meat. The sorbet tasted great but its coldness obliterated any lobster taste. I ate the lobster (very good) and whey (very good) by themselves. As a dish – Ok.

5. Triggerfish in Butter/Wine Sauce

Straightforward & well done. I never had triggerfish before (that i recall) – Good.

6. Foie Gras Torchon w/ Blackberry & Powdered Sugar Substance

French-Laundry quality, silky. Excellent.

7. Rabbit

No fireworks – just a wild rabbit cooked well – very gamey. Good.

8. Pasta w/ White Truffles

Truffles were grated tableside – I’m not truffle expert but they seemed cardboard-y. Pasta itself was forgettable. Ok.

9. Cripsed Pork Belly & Braised Pork Cheek w/ Chocolate Sauce

The belly was very nice – charred, very crispy outside, and bursting w/ flavor. The cheek was dull and the chocolate sauce couldn’t save it. Good.

10. Cheese-based Palette Cleanser

No idea what it was – served warm, light w/ some curding, it had a slightly too-sour taste for me. If it were cold, I probably would’ve loved it. Ok.

11. Cheese Plate

Despite having an on-site cheesery, only 1 of the cheeses on the menu was a Blackberry Farm cheese. I didn’t order it (it was a blue cheese) but they included it anyways.

Breakfast

I don’t get up that early so I squandered that part of my expense.

Lunch

They sent me off w/ a to-go box – a very nice gesture. I ate it somewhere between Blackberry and Atlanta at a rest stop. It was pretty good.

13. Kamado Roasted Lamb Leg, Caramelized Apples, & Curry Mint Mayo on Grilled Piadini Bread

A seriously good sandwich – everything worked in harmony here – the sandwich was definitely more than the sum of its parts. The bread had a wicked char and the leg was as good as anything I had for dinner (save the foie gras…) Very Good.

The Rest:

• Roasted Fingerling Potato Salad w/ Guancial & Rosemary
• White Bean Smoked Celery Salad w/ Benton’s Bacon & Carrot Vinaigrette
• Deviled Eggs
• Sorghum Walnut Cookies

In Summary

Overall, the meal was good but nothing worth traveling for. I liken it to a good Sonoma, Napa, or French countryside meal – solid ingredients and food. If you happened to be in the area, it should do the trick. There are a lot of $100 cabins in the nearby 10-mile area so you can save yourself the ridiculous expense of the room – the tasting menu is only $100. If the activities sound appealing to you, tack on $200-400 per activity, stay at the inn, and be prepared for a $2000+ bill when you leave.

- chuck