The Momofuku’s are known for pork, with its infamous vegetarian-unfriendly menus, but I find the (raw) seafood dishes perform best. They are the most creative, in terms of conception, and they definitely provide the most delight. I suspect, but I don’t know, that the seafood dishes served at Noodle Bar and Ssam provided ample inspiration for what would later become Ko. I would suggest ordering a few different seafood dishes, the (delicious) ham plate, and a meat dish for the end. The food, particularly the seafood, is good enough for one Michelin star.

Time is at a premium right now so this review will take the format I adopted in the old days. I forgot the camera, which was a shame considering the great lighting at our bar seat. The Girl Who Ate Everything had a similar meal with stunning photographs of many of the dishes below – check it out (not loving raw seafood does not make her the enemy btw.)

Glidden Point oysters w/ kimchi consomme – I really like the kimchi consomme they serve on the oysters at both Ssam and Noodle Bar – simple, different, and effective.

Diver sea scallops w/ pickled cherries & lemon – pristine scallop where the lemon complemented the scallop’s sweetness and the pickled cherries & lemon provided a balance of tartness. I had a variation of this last year at Ssam and I think the scallop/cherry pairing works very well together.

Sliced Long Island fluke w/ yuzu kosho, peaches – the peach sauce was excellent – soft without being too forward and it paired really well w/ the fish.

Cracked Empress Jonah crab claws w/ yuzu mayo – simple but oh so effective – the yuzu mayo was wonderfully tart.

Santa Barbara uni w/ tapioca, whipped tofu, & scallions – this seems to be a universal favorite in foodie land but it’s a bit too busy for me. The flavors work but you’re pulled in too many directions. I would like to see it pared down to something more refined.

Steamed pork buns – Momofuku should just serve these to everyone since it’s their most famous “dish.” If this is your first trip to Momofuku, order them.

Maine shrimp & watermelon salad w/ lime basil, mint, and Vietnamese fish sauce – my favorite dish of the night, a 2-Michelin star worthy dish, incredible balance of flavors. The watermelon and Vietnamese fish sauce were daring partners and the salty/sweet combination, livened by the lime and mint, might have been the best thing I ate on this trip (that included a visit to Masa.)

Eckerton Hill Farm’s tomato salad – fried tofu, opal basil – there were a variety of quartered tomatoes but their flavor was not as robust as I would have liked. From what I understand, as of August, the tomato growing season was not the greatest in the area.

Tasting of country hams – a platter of 4 different hams, from different regions and aged differently. While American ham will never be Spanish, the platter allows you to compare and contrast different pigs, regions, and approaches to making ham – educational.

Roasted stone bass w/ jersey corn, chanterelles, pancetta, & lima beans – a nice piece of fish w/ some tasty veggies, fairly straight-forward.

Crispy lamb belly & roasted loin – the loin was an excellent piece of lamb from the renowned Four Story Hill Farms, deep in flavor that’s near impossible to find in America. The belly was fried – way too heavy at this point in the meal for me.

Tristar strawberry shortcake – corn, Kendall Farm’s creme fraiche – the strawberries in this dessert were stunning – nearly as flavorful as a wild strawberry.

Blondie pie – This was far too sweet and rich, after eating so many dishes.

The waits can be long but a Momofuku restaurant is always included on my NYC itinerary. Its casualness and price point make it a great spot for lunch and/or a place to enjoy good food with not-foodie friends ³.

- chuck

1 – Yes, David Chang knew we were coming – writing a niche high-end food blog does have its perks.

2 – Yes, we paid full price. Unfortunately, writing a niche high-end food blog could have more perks.

3 – But the heavy metal can be loud, not that I mind.

Pizzeria Mozza (LA) – I was in LA for less than 24 hours but I managed to convince my pho-loving-ten-dollars-is-enough-for-food friends that, yes, this upscale pizza place might be worth it. It probably didn’t hurt that Mario Batali’s name was attached to it. And what pizzas they were! The crust was crunchy and doughy, full of flavor. However, it was the red sauce in the prosciutto pizza that told me I needed to return – amazing stuff – used all too sparingly.

Tailor (NYC) – The opening reviews slammed the place but I found them hard to believe. Sam Mason could do no wrong at WD-50; his desserts were often the best part of an already enjoyable meal. I ordered both the savory and sweet menus – 8-9 dishes in total – and everything was pretty good (for those that don’t me personally – that’s like saying “Mikey likes it!”) In particular, the inventive ice creams are highly recommended.

Range (SF) – When I read the opening reviews of Range, I thought here-we-go-again, another ingredients-first-San-Francisco restaurant from the Chez Panisse school of cooking. There’s nothing wrong with that, except that we have a few thousand of them. Then Michelin gave them one star and I thought over-rated. But my friend kept telling me it was worth it. And it was – it’s ingredient-first but the cooking was precise and the ingredients were better than I can procure at the farmer’s market. A great casual place to eat in San Francisco, in the same league as Blue Plate and Delfina.

Burger Joint (NYC) – I heard about this tucked-away spot and Luxeat’s review reminded me just in time for my last NYC trip. The line was long and hectic, but 20 minutes later, I ate a great hamburger. For the Californians, yes, this was better than In’n'Out – no question. Skip their fries.

Ino Sushi (SF) – Ino is a small sushi counter tucked inside the Japantown Plaza that is known but not terribly popular. Aside from Sebo, it probably serves the best sushi in San Francisco proper. I’d rate it a 7/10 on my sushi scale – not a destination but worthwhile if find yourself craving sushi in the city. My only real issue is that he doesn’t serve real wasabi.

El Paseo (Mill Valley, Bay Area) – When Michelin ran through our town last year, I read one interesting post that insisted El Paseo should have earned one star. Curiously, I’d never heard of the place and I grew a small fascination with it. The highlights were a high-quality piece of lamb (hard to find here in the States) and an impressive wine list (think French, not California wines.) Overall, the meal felt disjointed and inconsistent.

Spotted Pig (NYC) – I didn’t really do my research but the name led me to believe I’d be eating a lot of ham. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case; instead, I found myself in a quirky pub whose menu was transplanted from San Francisco. My burger with roquefort cheese was good, but I’d rather eat the Burger Joint (see above) one for 1/2 the price.

Sakae (Burlingame, Bay Area) – Sakae is often listed as the Bay Area’s best sushi restaurant. I tried a few lunches and dinner here but I fail to see the fascination. The fish is ok but it’s nowhere near the levels of the best in America. The rice temperature is a little cold and it doesn’t approach the levels of Masa or Sushi Yasuda. Some people have told me you need to become a regular to get the best; I don’t see enough potential to warrant the cost. Sebo and Ino are better in my book, unless you’re stuck on the peninsula.

Perbacco (SF) – Yet another Italian restaurant in our fair city. I only remember overcooked pasta and meat. Given the other options (Quince, Delfina, Rivoli), don’t bother – not even close to being in the same league.

Mijita Cocina Mexicana (SF) – The taco joint in the Ferry Building by Traci Des Jardines. Over-priced tacos without any of the soul, for the business-suit crowd. The only redeeming quality? They serve Mexican Coke – real cane sugar instead of HFCS. I could take a $4 train ride to and from the Mission and still come out ahead. If you need lunch in the Ferry Building, get a sandwich at Lulu’s Petite or oysters at Hog Island.

Until the next great meal…

- chuck

The Wandering Eater recently ate at Jean Georges and her meal is similar to my report below. The dishes don’t change much so older reports can be just as reliable when planning.

The amuse bouches, Sunchoke & Cranberry, Shitake, and Salmon Belly, laid the blueprint for the meal – sharp tastes with an emphasis on textures.

Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Black Bread, Jalapeno, and Yuzu began the meal with a forceful punch. The flavors were intense, seemingly bouncing around without concern for integration, but they melded together with each bite. The yuzu and jalapeno took turns dominating the tastes but both gave way to the urchin’s lasting sea flavor at the end. As jarring as the tastes, the textures of the dish played as prominent of a role – the crisp jalapeno, the transformation of the bread as you chew it, and the pervasive creamy uni. Very Good.

Sea Trout Sashimi Draped in Trout Eggs, Lemon, Dill, and Horseradish continued the full-blown taste and texture themes. The sequence of silky fish, popping fish eggs, and (I believe) crunchy skin lit up your mouth as much as the powerful tastes. And powerful they were. Blindly sticking your fork into the bowl would yield a completely unbalanced proportion of horseradish to lemon. After experimenting and adjusting, a powerful, but balanced, combination emerged where each ingredient managed to complement each other. Very Good.

The Foie Gras Brulee with Sour Cherry-Yuzu Marmalade was absolutely stunning – it will make it into 2008’s list of great dishes. The crust was tough while the cold foie inside was very creamy. The textural sensations were on par with the tastes; again, a wide range – the hard crunch of the shell, the ’softer’ crunch of the brioche, and the creamy foie inside. The marmalade gave the dish just enough acidity. Excellent.

On paper, the Black Cod Steamed with Honsheimeji Mushrooms and Lemongrass Consomme sounded like it could hit that right note of subtleness with me. However, the dish was a bit bland. The fish was slightly over-cooked, preventing the texture from achieving that wonderful black cod silkiness. The lemon zest in the mushrooms perked up but nothing else popped. The lemongrass consomme lacked much flavor, despite being mixed with tomato water. Ok.

The Crispy Arctic Char, Miso-Potato Puree, and Granny Smith-Jalapeno Juice was a fantastic concept with some execution issues. Texture was front and center – crisped skin, the red chips, the fish, and the puree. The fish was not cooked correctly – the outside was overcooked while the inside was raw. Regardless, the taste sensations reminded one of the earlier dishes – upfront jalapeno and miso that gave way to the fish and apple. Good.

The Tangy Glazed Short Ribs, Crunchy Grits, and Herb Salad, no fault of the restaurant, were too much – I was full. The glaze was quite sweet but the herb salad was powerfully acidic and did a great job balancing out the richness of the ribs. The crunchy grits fulfilled the textural obligations of a Jean Georges dish.

There were a lot of desserts and I didn’t keep notes. However, I thought they were very good overall. They blended effortlessly into the meal – a sweet continuation of the savory courses. There were big tastes – tamarind ice cream and apple/dill sorbet – and textures – jicama noodles. I would probably order one less dish next time so I could enjoy dessert more.

Overall, I had a very enjoyable lunch. This time, I enjoyed the in-your-face flavors, so much that I missed them in the cod dish. For the price, I think every food lover should try Jean Georges for lunch. Jean George’s dining empire spans the globe, and much of his cuisine is ubiquitous, but the flagship restaurant offers a worthwhile experience.

- chuck

1 – This meal cost $149 with a $70 bottle of wine. That is a remarkable value.

2 – It is also worth nothing that I have the special asterisk next to my name in their computer. That symbol may, or may not, account for the quality of the meal.

Richart’s story can be found in other places but the short version is that Michel took the business over (from his father) and updated it using contemporary art as one of his primary influences. Indeed, design is the immediate distinguishing feature – bold bright colors that look too intricate and impossible to place on chocolates. The chocolates below, while striking in their simplicity, don’t show the detail and color of other designs. Designs are “printed” using cocoa butter.

Permanent flavor families are offered as well as special editions throughout the year. The permanent families include Balsamic, Roasted, Fruity, Citrus, Herbal, Floral, & Spiced. Special offerings include themes based on seasons, children’s themes, and even a yearly contest that features a lucky kid’s design.

The chocolate used is 70% minimum of the Criollo bean from Venezuala. From there, they claim to grind it finer than other chocolate makers – from 20 to 12 microns – to ensure an “ultra-smooth palate experience.” The chocolates come with a variety of fillings – ganache, praline, and coulis. The ganache is made with cream from Normandy or Bresse and the coulis contains actual fruit pulp.

The flavors are as vibrant as the design – crisp, bold, bright, and clean. Some flavors, particularly the orange, taste like an entire piece of fruit has been concentrated into the small chocolate somehow. It’s amazing how such small squares have such impact.

From Left to Right, Back to Front:

Grapefruit Praline – bitter grapefruit upfront yields to a sweet hazelnut finish.

Mandarin / Green Orange Ganache – very orange, nearly concentrated in impact, vibrant.

Kumquat Coulis – crisp kumquat flavor with some bitterness from its pulp in the coulis, fairly long finish.

Bergamot Ganache – the chocolate remains strong with bergamot inflections, the ganache quite creamy and very smooth.

Citrus Essence Coulis – orange, lemon, and bergamot flavors dance around, none dominating, but maintaining the citrus essence throughout.

Orange Zest Coulis – intense orange flavor with a fair amount of bitterness that slowly decays and cedes to the underlying chocolate notes.

Lemon Ganache – intensely strong lemon flavor, almost a concentrated lemon confit taste, big and very bright.

The coulis citrus chocolates are the best – the fruit flavors are boldest and cleanest, presumably from the inclusion of actual pulp. All are intense and pack more flavor than most chocolates from any other producer. The chocolate shells are not always the freshest, unlike Paul Young (London) or Kee’s Chocolate (NYC), but the explosive flavors make up for deficiencies in the shell. If you could get them fresh from Lyon (Richart’s home base), they could oust Paul Young from my top ranking.

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.richart.com/

There’s no shortage of accolades for their chocolates – and rightfully so. But their macaroons are deserving of the same attention. The chocolate ganache filled centers, a variation on the typical macaroon, is not so much a point of distinction as it is a confidence in their chocolatier experience. It might sound overpowering but the ganache is subtle and balanced; a complement, never a deterrent, from the shell. The flavors aren’t daring ala Pierre Herme; instead, they are more traditionally paired with the chocolate center. One approach is not necessarily better than the other as long as the execution is exemplary.

La Maison du Chocolat has a more corporate feel than Pierre Herme or Laduree. There’s no cult of personality nor a century-long tradition, but expansion does have its benefits – you can buy them in the States. Eat 2 Love says they are shipped from Paris twice a week. Surprisingly, even with this delay, they keep longer than Pierre Herme or Laduree. The macaroons had their best texture on day two but were still going strong on day four – you can bring these back for friends.

So what are the flavors and how do they taste?

The flavors on this day were LMC’s New Collection:

• Guayaquil – a vanilla shell with a dark chocolate center. The dark chocolate contrasted nicely with the vanilla, which is subtler and less sweet than you’d expect.
• Salvador – a raspberry shell with a raspberry dark chocolate ganache. It would be overload in lesser hands. The ganache had a raspberry “tint” that complemented the sweeter, more pronounced shell.
• Rigoletto – a salted caramel shell with a milk chocolate center. Salt and milk chocolate are a perfect combination – this instantly brought back memories of the Le Bernardin milk chocolate pot de creme “egg.”
• Quito – a dark chocolate shell and center. This was chocolate overload for me. I would have preferred another flavor to break up the onslaught but I would probably be in the minority here.
• Romeo – Kenyan coffee shell with milk chocolate center. Perfect. The smooth, creamy center was the perfect foil to the ever-so-slightly bitter coffee shell.

The texture is everything a macaroon should be. It has a crunch that immediately gives to the teeth but still retains a slight chewiness. The ganache is firmer than the traditional fillings which, in turn, helps its texture even more. The texture is definitely preferred to the Pierre Herme macaroons but I’m uncertain if I prefer them to Laduree or not.

A necessary stop for NYC. If you’re in London, make a stop but be sure to visit Paul Young for chocolates – my favorite in the world. If you’re in Paris, well, you might as well visit Pierre Herme since you can’t get them outside of Parisian soil (except for Tokyo.)

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/fr/

If you are further interested, here’s an excellent article on LMC’s history and techniques for making chocolate.

Manhattan adores her too – lines are frequent and if you arrive too late, you’re out of luck.

How good are they?

Their freshness is their distinguishing factor. The chocolates are made in small batches all day long – and carried over to the adjacent store-front for sales. It’s tempting to save them, and it’s hard to eat an entire box in one sitting, but I’d recommend eating the most appealing flavors first. Let them warm up a touch since they come out of the display case a little too cool.

You can see the menu online but, sadly for chocolate lovers nationwide, she doesn’t ship. Nor should she – it would compromise the chocolates’ most valuable characteristic. There is a marked difference in quality after 1-2 days. They are still delicious, and I find myself taking orders for others back home, but they’re best enjoyed of the day.

According to a Chocolate.com article, Kee uses “heavy cream, cocoa, cocoa butter, milk, sugar in different proportions according to my own recipes.” She doesn’t add butter or sugar, which can be hard to believe. From ChocolateZoom.com, the cocoa percentag is between 62 and 72; any higher and Kee feels the bitterness overwhelms the (delicate) flavors. She doesn’t make her own chocolate (hardly anyone does) – she uses Cacao Noel chocolate from France.

When you bite into one, the first sensation is one of freshness. It’s hard to write in words but you know it. Immediately thereafter, the texture distinguishes Kee’s from the others. The shells are crisp and yield immediately to the ganache inside. The ganache is usually very smooth and extremely creamy – often, sublime. The best flavors are subtle and complex; at worst, they can be muted. They can also veer towards the sweeter side but not offensively so.

Crème brûlée – Dark chocolate bonbon filled with creme brulée
If Kee has a signature, this is it. Met with nearly universal acclaim, I haven’t found a negative word written about it. Nor should one be written. Fresh cream and eggs are used. They will warn you this one must be eaten immediately because of the custard inside. Bite and vanilla custard gushes out, intense, and terribly delicious. A must-order for any first-timer; if they are out, place an order, do some shopping, and come back later in the day.

Thompson – Whipped cream over milk/dark chocolate, smothered with a milk/dark coating
However, this my new favorite flavor. Not normally a fan of milk chocolate, this piece delivers everything connotated by those words – milk and chocolate. The “ganache” inside is heavenly light, milky in taste, and ephemeral.

Some other favorites include Balsamic and Lemon Basil. You can read reviews of other flavors at CandyBlog, Lovescool, The Girl Who Ate Everything (and I might believe it!), and a quick review at Fork and Bottle (who has also tried nearly everything!)

I’ve been eating Kee’s since she opened and they get better with each visit. Best in America? Yes, but that may not be entirely fair. I’ve tried a few others in the past few months: John & Kira (better than average), Grocer’s Daughter (lacked freshness), and DC Duby (far too sweet); but none tasted as good as Kee’s; however, all were through mail-order. Nonetheless, Kee’s philisophy stands for something – don’t mail-order if it compromises the experience. Obviously, this isn’t financially viable unless you have a concetrated mass of chocolate lovers (like Manhattan) but it’s good to see people sticking to their ideals.

If I were to rank my favorite chocolates in the world, the list would read:

• Paul Young (London) – best all around and he uses Amadei chocolate
• Richart (Paris, SF, & NY) – the citrus, fruit, and floral varities pack intense flavor
• Kee’s (NY) – freshness and texture
• La Maison du Chocolat (Paris, London, Cannes, & NY) – traditional but very well done
• JP Hevin (Paris) – the cheese chocolates are the novelty (and they can be very good) but everything is solid

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.keeschocolates.com/

Some Other Profles:
http://en.epochtimes.com/news/4-12-13/24926.html

http://www.amateurgourmet.com/the_amateur_gourmet/2005/11/theres_a_store_.html

My first visit to Doughnut Plant left me wondering what the hype was about. Sure, more-artisinal-than-normal ingredients for a doughnut but the end result left me unsatisfied. The doughnuts are made by hand with natural ingredients – fresh fruits, sea salt, fresh milk, fresh butter, and unbleached unbromated flour. Glazes follow the same formula. It’s a study in dialectics – healthier junk food and hoity toity doughnuts that are affordable for nearly everyone.

It’s an easy story for the media to latch onto (and they did) so I viewed the place with some scepticism after that first visit. (And there are others who believe the popularity has led to a decrease in quality.)

On a second visit, I tried the infamous Coconut Cream doughnut and then I fully understood. Coconut and sugar on the outside of a yeasty, coconut cream center – it could easily be a daily habit if I lived on the island. The doughnut has a nuanced and subtle coconut flavor permeating it. When you bite in, the cream doesn’t gush out as it might in an inferior doughnut; instead, its ratio is near perfect for the amount of bread.

They sell the doughnuts throughout the city (Whole Foods, Dean & Deluca, etc) but I’d suggest visiting the source. Get there by early afternoon to ensure there are still a few left. If you happen to be in Tokyo, they are popping up all over the city – the Japanese love affair with desserts.

The innards – while the picture may not be appetiziing, you can see the lightness of the doughnut.

It’s the sort of formula that could be copied anywhere. Take a comfort food from our past (doughnuts, ice cream, pizza, hot dogs, ramen, etc), create a high-quality artisinal version, stream-line some of the production while maintaining the artisinal roots, and sell it in low-rent bare-bones storefronts and/or farmer’s markets. The anti-business argument is that people are conditioned to pay cheaper prices for these foods but I think people are beginning to recognize and value quality, thus the few places you have seen pop up.

What are other places in your area that fit this criteria?

- chuck

These words, from a comment in a previous post, echoed in my head the day leading up to my Jean Georges lunch. JG was my first “high end” meal five years ago and it stood head and shoulders above everything else for some time (French Laundry, Ron Siegel’s Masa’s, La Folie, and others.) I remembered a nuanced and subtle cuisine permeated by ginger, lemon, and lemongrass essences. The memory of that meal was so positive I found myself reluctant to return on subsequent visits to New York. Well, it was time to brave those waters again.

I met Alex and Aki from Ideas in Food, two of my favorite chefs in this country (see my previous Keyah Grande reports.) The kitchen offered to cook for us and we were off. Actualy, that’s not entirely true – Alex & Aki brought some pre-food – their whipped yogurt crisps and pop rocks. After that, we got started.

The meal was good but there was no subtlety; the flavors were very powerful and not as balanced as I expected/remembered/wanted. You could equate it to a California Zin. In fact, if you read the dish descriptions below, you can probably immediately identify the flavor in question. There were some small technical errors like imperfect fish (not bad, just not perfect) and instances of less than 3*** ingredients (the tuna ribbons, that disgusting L’Astrance-quality pineapple); but it was the overly-forward flavor profile that prevented me from loving it. And, yes, Mr JG was there. Moby’s words rang true on this particular lunch; the meal was high Michelin 1 star quality.

I wasn’t taking notes (foolish me, I thought I could remember everything) so I just leave you w/ pretty pictures. I will return for lunch – it’s a good deal – and pay more attention next time.

1. Amuse

2. Caviar, Soft-cooked Egg, & Brioche

3. Bluefin Tuna Ribbons, Avocado, Spicy Radish, & Ginger Marinade

4. Cubes of Kanachi, Spiced Japanese Cucumber, & Soy Basil Infusion

5. Crab and Mango Salad, “Chili-Champagne” Sabayon

6. Sea Trout Sashimi Draped in Trout Eggs, Lemon, Dill, & Horseradish

7. Foie Gras Brulee, Rhubard Juice, Pineapple “Raisins”, & Sichuan Peppercorn

8. Green Asparagus w/ Morels & Asparagus Juice

9. Poached Black Cod w/ Honshimeji Mushrooms & Lemongrass Consomme

10. Black Bass Crusted w/ Nuts & Seeds, Sweet & Sour Jus

11. Smoked Squab A L’Orange, Asian Pear, & Candied Tamarind

12. Short Rib Vinaigrette, Favas, Jalapeno, & Mint

13. Carved Pineapple

14. Rhubard Granite, Buttermilk Froth, Cape Gooseberries

15. Pine Nut / Rhubard Cake, Crispy Pine Nuts, Creme Fraiche Ice Cream

16. Donut

17. Mystery Shooter

- chuck

- AC / DC – “Back in Black”

It blares through the loudspeakers at Momofuku and it’s oh-so-appropriate. Momofuku, and Chef David Chang, are at the forefront of a movement that’s injecting a good dose of rock’n'roll rebellion and Schumpeter’s creative destructionism into fine dining across the country – small format restaurants, fused with personality, that serve seriously good food.

Talented chefs are leaving the factories and creating casual eateries at lower price points – while using the filtered-down techniques of the culinary elite. You could call it a democratization of fine dining. The lower price points and casual atmospheres attract a larger crowd unconcerned with the normal pretenses of fine dining – servants, hushed tones, “civilized” dress codes, and wine programs that flaunt unattainable $3000 bottles of wine. It’s an attempt to translate the essentials of fine dining (ingredients and technique) to a youth culture format.

And in this small storm, David Chang is the wunderkind of the moment. You can’t open a food magazine without the editors raving about his two restaurants – Momofuku Noodle Bar and Momofuku Ssam. On Monday night, he won the 2007 James Beard award for Rising New Chef. Despite the laughable nominations in many of the James Beard categories (Floyd Cardoz? Douglas Keane? Traci Des Jardins?), they got this one right. He’s that good and you should try a taste of this revolution.

1. Wax Bean Salad (Satur Farms) w/ pickled beets & candied pine nuts
As you can see from the pictures, it’s not refined but the concept could be featured in any Michelin 3-star restaurant. The beans and beets were perfect complements, a bright taste of spring. However, the sweet/salty pine nuts grounded the dish, gave it dimension, and tied everything together . Very Good.

2. Steamed Berkshire Pork Bun
Simple and perfect – a bun with faint hints of sweetness, delicious fatty pork, and a slighty sweet sauce. Some complain that it’s a bit one-dimensional but these buns are a must-order for any first-timer (and an always-order for me.) Very Good.

3. Fried Cured Pork Belly w/ smoked molasses, orange, & pickled celery
Sometimes I wonder if I’m being nudged towards vegetarian ways. This sounded great on paper but it should be sent back to the drawing board. The flavors, while complementary, were muddled. The pickled celery was excellent (and I hate celery) but its brightness couldn’t cut through the fat and cloying molasses. The orange’s acid could have done the trick but, while discernible, blent into the molasses. Ok.

4. Sauteed Sugar Snap Peas (Satur Farms) w/ grated horseradish & salted radish
The freshly grated horseradish gave this dish a nuance and subtlety befitting of a three star dish. Again, this is not a refined dish in presentation or control but it’s a great concept – three elements working together in harmony. Very Good.

5. Momofuku Ramen w/ Berkshire pork combo & poached egg
If this is your first visit, do not order the ramen – order the pork buns, oysters, salads, and seafood dishes. Despite it undoubtedly being Momofuku’s raison d’entre in the beginning, this is just above average ramen. The flavor and ingredients are fresh but it’s not hard to find tastier ramen. Why did I order it? It was a cold Sunday evening and I was wary of the fish’s freshness. Good.

Value-wise, there’s no better deal in the country. Momofuku is what Slanted Door wished it could be (adjusting for nationalities of course.) Momofuku and Momofuku Ssam (review coming soon) are bright, consistent lights of NYC dining – mandatory stops for anyone interested in food. If there was a San Francisco branch, I would eat there weekly – Manresa for the four hour meals, Momofuku for the night out.

And then there are rumors of a third Momofuku – a fine dining version.

- chuck

Official Site: http://www.momofuku.com/

And then you get unlucky. There’s quite a few things that can go wrong with a restaurant visit:

• The ingredients may not be up to par for that day (but the chef has to serve something.)
• The chef, or an important assistant, may be out, not feeling well, etc.
• The restaurant may be busy and execution may suffer (that is why Wed & Thurs dining often yield the best meals.)
• And plenty more.

It’s a human business afterall – people must bring ingredients to the restaurant, people must prepare the food, people must cook it, people must serve it, and people must eat. That’s a scary chain considering how dependable people usually are.

The Menu:

1. Smoked Bacon / Apple Croquettes

A good start – these are neither Manresa nor Bastide quality – but the smoky bacon definitely tipped the scales. Pretty Good.

2. Kampachi w/ Mango, Cherry Tomato, & Thai Chili

A nearly inedible piece of fish. Their sister restaurant, Jewel Bako, serves sushi? Is this their leftovers? Do they serve such strong flavors with it to mask the (unacceptable) quality? Awful.

3. Grilled Langostine

This isn’t France or Spain – decent but watery. Ok.

4. Grilled African Red Shrimp

My favorite of the night – nice, sweet taste, cooked well. Very Good.

5. Squid stuffed w/ Braised Short Ribs w/ Chorizio Lentils

Nice char on the squid but the short ribs were both dry and bland. The lentils lent the dish some flavor (and mositure) but this dish had already failed. There is potential and I guess others have had far more success. Not Good.

6. Crispy Pork Belly w/ Grilled Scallions, Mushrooms, Pickled Jalepeno, & Cilantro

Lots of strong ingredients and yet, somehow, a complete lack of taste. Pork belly wasn’t *that* crispy, and its fat masked the jalapeno & cilantro flavors. Not Good.

7. Grilled Lamb Loin w/ Truffled Cauliflower Puree & Black Maitake Mushrooms

Lamb lacked any taste but it was cooked correctly; the cauliflower puree was tasty. Ok (thanks to puree.)

8. Ribeye w/ Red Onion Marmalade, Molasses, & Bone Marrow

The ribeye, while cooked correctly, had no taste – was it aged? at all? The molasses sauce completely masked the meat (even if the meat *had* flavor, it would still overpower.) Not Good.

At this point, we were still hungry but decided to cut our losses. It was off to Bar Jamon for olives & ham (and lots of wine to purge the memory of this meal.)

Ingredient quality and conception are the 2 big question marks in my mind. The disconnect between my meal and others is rather astounding. Are the ingredients of usually higher quality? Do higher quality meats stand up to the generally intense accompaniments? Execution doesn’t seem to be a problem – everything was cooked correctly. Ingredients and conception… but I will hold off on conception til the ingredient quality is higher.

Would i return? It would take quite a bit… Momofuku is what this restaurant *should* be in terms of quality – Degustation has a long way to go based on my meal.

- chuck